Ok guys I am about to jack the car up this weekend. Here is what I belive I need PLEASE let me know if I am missing anything(I also have some questions at the end):

My plans: New headgaskets, Pacesetter Longtubes, 1.6 RR's, LT4 springs etc..

Gaskets I think I need (Let me know what I am missing):

Felpro 1074 Headgaskets - 2
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets Felpro 1470's - 2
Intake Manifold Gasket(s) - 2
Fuel Injector O-Rings - 8
EGR Block off plates + Gaskets (one for each block off)
ARP Head Bolts
1" Exhaust Bolts
Thread Sealeant for Headbolts
Valve Stem Seals - 16
TB Gasket -1


Tools
Ft/lb and inch/lb torque wrenches
Spring compressor
Fuel Disconnect tool
Gasket scrapers
Craftsmen 400 piece w/ numerous ratcheting box wrenches
4 Jack stands w/ lots of wood/bricks to add height.
1 regular 2 ton jack, 1 6 Ton piston jack(in case I need to jack the motor)

Question(s)

1) What type of RTV do I use on the intake manifold end seals? The gaskets came w/ Black RTV Silicon. I have heard of people using something called "The Right STuff" what should I do and where can I get this?

2) Does any RTV go on the actual intake gaskets themselfs?

3) I belive I need thread sealant on the head bolts. What kind should I get and how much do you use?

4) How clean and what do you use to clean the block/head surface before putting the new headgasket on? I have a razerblade gasket scraper but I didn't know if any chemicals were used as well.

5) As far as the EGR block offs go, I see kits on ebay. Can I use the existing bolts from the EGR hook ups to bolt up the block offs?

6) Where else is RTV needed, should It be put on the TB gasket?

7) What size/brand exhaust manifold bolts do I need? I have heard 1" is good w/ pacesetter. Are the ones which come w/ the headers insufficent?

8) I plan to take the heads to a machine shop to check for cracks/warpage, should they be re-surfaced regardless of warpage or is that only necessary in the event of?

9) When cleaning the head gasket surface what orfices should be block off w/ paper towels, does it matter if material falls into the cylinders?

10) Should I flush the motor w/ oil upon completion, then fill her up w/ the good stuff?

Note: I plan to do this outside...since thats the only place I have. I will store all the parts I take off in the garage but its too small to work on the car inside. It may take a couple weeks to get the project done. If the car sits outside and it rains and the heads are off, is this a problem as long as the hoods is down?



Thanks a lot guys, really appreciate the input!

 

The reason why I need all parts upfront is because I will have no real form of transportation except my roommates car every once in a while....Yep I'll be walking to work.

 

Do you really need to jack the car up? I am also starting my swap tonight and I was planing on slipping the headers in with the heads off and thats the hardest part done. As for the head gaskets, in another thread I was told apply dry. And I plan on using the bolts that came with the pacesetters.

 

Well that may be true, I honestly don't know since I have no experience w/ header install, but I assumed you needed the car jacked up so someone can hold the header from the bottom while you bolt it up.

 

Yea I was just gonna find a skinny friend and make em crawl under the car.

 

What's going to stop the header from falling back down when your bolting the head back up? Or will the bottom be touching the ground?

 

large task is at hand
bungie strap the headers up

how do you plan to hook the headers to your pipes?
let the machine shop do the springs when checking the heads
1 blue rtv
2 on the ends
3 ?
4 block should be easy to clean , let the machine shop do the heads
5 yes
6 no
7 pacesetter are fine
8 good idea , gain some compression and peace of mind
9 you can wipe the cylinders out but don't drop anything into the lifter valley, be careful here
drain the block of water first
10 good idea
11 put oil or wd40 in the cyls, if the engine gets water in it drain the oil and replace before starting
12 good luck, don't crank it with the o2 sensors in and get o2 extensions
hope my info is correct

 

To your Note: I had to let mine set for 2 weeks but in a garage. But I cleaned the head surface and vacumed out the cylinders and I bought a sheet of bristal board,and marked it so i could tape it on over the the cylinder banks and the lifter valley in one peice. Work for me!! Everything was clean and ready for the heads when I got them back. Good Luck!!!

 

I just got done installing some pacesetter longtubes, the bolts that come with them are 1". I ended up buying o2 sensor extensions instead of cutting/splicing on wire extensions. Save me the headache and were only like $30 for both off ebay. Also, I didn't need to undo the steering shaft like the instructions said. I went the route of undoing the motor mount bolt and jacked the engine up one side at a time and they went in thru the top.

 

You can get the headers in from the top woth the heads off but it is a total pain in the *** to get the botom head bolts torqued with the headers in the way.

I pulled the engine out of the top (94 formula) and put a new short block in, I think i actually tied the headers in place then droped the shotblock in... either way It was a mayjor pain in the ars to get the bottom head bolts torqued with the headers loose in the engine bay. It can be done though. I had hooker supercomp long tubes.

While cleaning the lfter valey just sipmly place paper towels in the valey or if you really want to seal it off you can use tape and plastic.

May 93 Z28 sat outside with the heads off. It rained and the next morning there was standing water in the cylinders. So it would be a good idea to cover the engine with trash bags or the like just to be safe. just use common sense. You can also smear a little grease on the cyl walls while the heads are off to prevent any moisture/rust build up.

If you buy new head bolts, they should already have sealand on them. Mine did anyway from vatozone.

You should also run a chaser though all of the head bolt holes on the engine block.
I did this by cutting an angled groove in one of my old head bolt and ran it though each bolt hole. You can also use a regular thread cutter/tap. 7/16ths i think.

AAlso before you install your heads its a good idea to make sure there is no standing water in the bottom of the bolt holes. If you try to torque the bolts down with water in them you can crack the block or end up with improperly torqued head bolts. Keep in mind that some head bolt holes lead into water jackets and if you still have water in the block and use compressed are to clear the holes, you can end up making a mess. Ask me how I know.haha.

just take your time and pay attention to what your doing. Good luck!

 

PB Blaster is your friend.
Get your car up high, we had my buddies car's rear wheels on ramps and the front jacked all the way up on 6-ton jack stands. The more room the better, go from underneath.

 

I forgot I have a car cover so I guess I'll throw that on after I'm done every night.

Also I am using slightly used ARP head bolts so they dont have sealant anymore. What do you suggest I use? Is it very crucial to use it on them? I dont want to pay the machine shop extra to put the springs on, since I can just rent the tool from autozone. I've actually done it before on my 93 so its nothing new to me.