firebirdStud

Ok, is it a good idea to be running gapless rings on a street motor? Im sure your familiar, its a stroker, 4.030 bore. But, do they work, and not harm anything? Or should I stick with the normal rings? What is the best kind of rings to use if gapless are bad? Plasma molly up top, iron secondary, or what? Also, what kind of gaps do you guys run? should be either 11.22 or 11.36:1 comp. pump gas, daily driver.
Thanks
Cody

MachinistOne

Get the mahle pistons I showed you and run their ring pack.

firebirdStud

yes sir! (no sarcasm intended)

jsetzer

I have always heard bad things about gapless/totalseal rings.

I'm running moly rings, but gapped for a decent shot of n20.

Was told to to gap 25/23 for top/bottom for a 200 shot. My machine shop thought that was a bit too small. We did 28/25. Builder freaked and said I would pore through oil. I don't get a bit of smoke and after 1k miles my oil level hasn't changed.

1racerdude

There is NOTHING wrong with gapless rings. The horror stories are from improper installation.
I have put them in my last few engines and they worked fine with less leak down than ANY ring after 1000 miles.(3-4%)

InEviTableSS

as long as you arent running a seriously high compression or plan on doing any kind of forced induction or nitrous then yea they will be fine

1racerdude

They are fine with a blower engine too and 15-1.

HardcoreRM125

I'm with 1RacerDude

I honestly cant say I have heard a single bad thing about them from any reputable builder.

And I know of a few motors a guy my dad knows that are running upwards of 12PSI on them. They take to boost nicely. They probably yeild the best results compared to standard rings on a Forced Induction motor.

firebirdStud

well, mine is NA, so no worries about boost. I will be at about 11.22:1 compression, which isn't too high. I guess I just never hear of anyone running them, so I was curious if I should give them a shot when I put this thing back together...

1racerdude

Be aware that it takes a special finish on the cyl wall's and a special gap.
"O" did I mention the price--$275.00 a set.
Ya will see 8-12FWHP more if installed correctly.

HardcoreRM125

Yea and to finish the cylinder walls and set the gap right, you have to be going to a very reputable shop. Not alot of places have enough experience with them. They're not as common as you may think. Regardless of that, I would say they are worth it. I've read and heard that they are less likely to cause ring land failure as well as they are fully supported all the way around. This makes the ring more rigid. However, I would take that for what it's worth: What I have READ and HEARD. Not the most reputable things but regardless, its something to look into. Talk to some builders and see what they say about them.

firebirdStud

Hm, i was unaware that you had to coat the cylinder walls. Funny how it doesn't say that anywhere on the sites that sell gapless rings. Well, not mentioned that I saw! Well, I will prolly get the mahles, and they come with rings already, so no gapless there. I guess if I run the gaps tight enough it will have to do!
Thanks again to all who responded!

1racerdude

Ya don't have to "coat" the walls. The hone finish has to be correct,not to smooth,not to rough.(The right stones in the right sequence)

firebirdStud

Oh, gotcha! I need to hone the cylinders yet anyway, so I guess it could be done still. Also, I have already put 5000 miles on the car since the stroker, is it ok to just rehone the cylinders, or do I have to punch it to .040 over now? I know you have to rehone so the rings can wear in again, but is it ok to just rehone the .030 bore?

gex598

I have gapless top rings and spray a 250 shot on them, no problems! If I remeber Total Seal asked for a 220 or 280 grit finish on the cylinder walls. The biggest PITA was getting all the gaps perfect, but I'm just ****. I guess you do have some play with the gapless set, hence the name!