Well its cold as f**k out and the Z's fuel pump died today when I was getting ready to leave work. I'm going to look around for some install guides for fuel pumps. I'm guessing I will have to order a Grantanelli or Walbaro. Any help would be appreciated. OH does the carb cleaner into the TB work to try to start the car? Thanks CZ28

 

Remove rear axle, drop tank, replace pump.

 

I just replaced my FP this Sunday. I Purchased a Grenatelli kit (came with a Walbro pump) for 125.00

Instead of dropping the axle and such just do what Brian has done: http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/fuelpump.html

With only a few minor adjustments it beats the other option.

 

Thanks for the link! Its kinda hard to tell by the pic but fuel pump is actually right behind the rear seat under the carpet before the trunk well?

 

Was that pump kit hard to install? Any soldering or was it pretty much plug and play?

 

I would probably go with a Walbro 255 lph pump. It is not hard to drop the rear to remove the gas tank. It beats butchering up your car.

 

Yes, between the back of the rear seats and the trunk well. No soldering required.

My Genatelli kit came with a Walbro 255 fuel pump.

A few helpful hints in addition to the kit instructions :

Some kits do come with a resevoir /case others do not. Some fuel pumps might not be the same exact replacement. My old pump 's lower port was offset versus the new pump's port was right on dead center. This left me with the choice of not being able to use the old resevoir. Seems these resevoirs are used to keep the pump submerged in fuel--keeping it cooler?

Use a Dremel or like with cutting wheels to start the initial opening then go on using a sheet metal scissors for most of the cutting. Take your time and have fun at it. After the complete trap is finnished, smooth off the edges with the Dremel to prevent any accidental damage to self, wiring or fuel lines. Clean the surrounding area of the fuel tank and then paint those edges to prevent any rust. Now you have what other Car makes have --- a trap door for fuel pump replacement.

Start forming the trap door (while the paint is drying); make it bigger than the opening as Brian shows in his awsome pictures. Make such you have short sheet metal screws and be careful not to puncture the fuel tank when installing. Check where the screws would go before you prep the trap door's presset screws holes. Measure them twice.

After all the sparks have been done. One can open the fuel tank. Do get a "quick disconnect" tool; the type the fuel filter uses versus the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pump assembly's outside connectors are the same type the fuel filter uses. Only two of the four fuel lines use this and one was four inches from hell to get! E-mail me for additional advice.

Remove the fuel assembly (letting it drip off fuel into the tank then cover the fuel tanks opening with rags). Take a few minutes to get to know this assembly before you start removing things and such. Have a few of Brians pictures at hand just in case you need quick references.

Disconnect and remove the two fuel lines that come from the top of the resevoir itself (one goes to the expansion tank). Make notice that another fuel hose is different than the rest --- not made of rubber but plastic---this one connects to the actual pump. The new kit fuel rubber hose will replace this plastic one.

Disconnect the wiring that does to the top of the resevior only (and to the pump itself) - this is the only wiring issue you will have to work with. Remove the lower screen filter and then remove the rubber boot holders for the resevoir. The old pump can now be placed aside.

With new pump: get the new lower rubber mold and also the old rubber mold from the top of the old pump and install them onto the new pump. Since we now lack the resevoir that held in place the pump, we need to attach/hold the pump to the harness via Brain's method. I also used portions of the old fuel hose sizing and placing them between the pump and metal frame for cushioning; then tighting as Brian did.

Once the fuel pump issue is set if you want you can "adjust" the fuel level issue---as most if not all F bodies experience. I just expanded the angle of the floating arm using "guessometry" methods. Now when the fuel tank is full the gauge also reflects said status and not pegging to the extreme top right --- just right on "full".

Hope this along with Brian's pictures help. I really feel at ease knowingly that if this new pump goes out at any time; all I have to do is get a replacement and just open this "butchering" trap door. All done it 20 flat.

 

Wouldn't it be easier just to install an inline fuel pump?

 

A very good question... I also asked about this before I ventured into the tank and was told (did not validate with this web) if an in tank pump is out it actually will not let any fuel to pass thru it ... nulling the pumping from any outside source.

 

I'm in the middle of doing my Walbro in-tank pump right now, did you re-use the factory plastic fuel bucket? If not have you noticed ANY problems as of yet?

THANKS

 

check your regular e-mail...

I sent you some info

 

You can't siphon fuel through a dead pump just by installing an in-line pump. The vanes of the dead fuel pump are mechanically rotated, and do not spin freely.

Yes, you can reuse the factory bucket, but you'll need to trim the inside plastic guides for it to seat correctly in the base. You mention Some kits do come with a resevoir /case others do not. Some fuel pumps might not be the same exact replacement. My old pump 's lower port was offset versus the new pump's port was right on dead center. This left me with the choice of not being able to use the old resevoir. Seems these resevoirs are used to keep the pump submerged in fuel--keeping it cooler?

Simply trim the plastic with a razor or Dremel, and it will fit fine. No need to throw away the old bucket.

As for the "awesome photos," I think mine are better.

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html

I'm using a Racetronix harness and Walbro GSS307 pump, with incredible results. Need more info, drop me an email.

joespena@fbodythunder.com

 

Your site was also VERY helpful I used your measurements to cut my hole & it worked perfect! I have a different fuel pump my part # is: GSS340M this is the high pressure pump, I am definately gonna try and modify my fuel bucket so I can use it with this new pump. Were did you get the harness and how much was it?

 

I purchased it directly from Racetronix for a shade over $200.

http://www.racetronix.com

 

Those other cars have the door designed into the car. Our cars do not. I would choose to do it the approved way by dropping the tank. Everyone has an opinion on this and that's mine. All reasons pro and con were discussed in a long thread a while back and I have nothing more to discuss. I don't want any newbies reading to get the idea that cutting a hole in the car's unibody does not have caveats.