first dyno run with results
For his power curve that would be too much and would actually slow him down. With that kind of power curve it'd be more beneficial to rev between 6000 and 6200rpm. Best thing to do is play with shift points at the track.
Although you are asking this question of another poster, and I really don't
have anything to say regarding differently, I wanted to verify some things
in your mods list.
>>95 z28 m6-slp 2otl full header back(hollowed cat,jethot),hurst(lou's short stick),
Airflow Research heads-180,cc502,promagnum rockers,GM extreme timing,
ss hood w/box(k+n),alum. driveshaft,pcm forless,no cags,strange 3:73's,lt4 k.m.<<
Are the jethots in the list long tubes? Are the rockers 1.6? If so, with all the
other mods I would expect, with everything else working together properly
and a dyno tune, your car should be in the 350-360 rwhp (SAE) range. It's
possible to be a bit higher, but everything has to be perfect.
The best comparison is to search up dyno numbers for hot cam cars. You
may be there now with a tune.
have anything to say regarding differently, I wanted to verify some things
in your mods list.
>>95 z28 m6-slp 2otl full header back(hollowed cat,jethot),hurst(lou's short stick),
Airflow Research heads-180,cc502,promagnum rockers,GM extreme timing,
ss hood w/box(k+n),alum. driveshaft,pcm forless,no cags,strange 3:73's,lt4 k.m.<<
Are the jethots in the list long tubes? Are the rockers 1.6? If so, with all the
other mods I would expect, with everything else working together properly
and a dyno tune, your car should be in the 350-360 rwhp (SAE) range. It's
possible to be a bit higher, but everything has to be perfect.
The best comparison is to search up dyno numbers for hot cam cars. You
may be there now with a tune.
You may be right, but some of us do not have tracks available to run our
cars, so the dyno is the only tool. Even if I had a track available I would not
be there regularly. I'm very pleased with the way my car runs and all it has
seen is dyno time. I'm also sure it would run well at the track based on how
it runs in the real world. The launch is key in the 1/4 mile world and the dyno
does not do squat in that regard, but once you are moving it's not so bad.
The "dyno is useless/pointless" comment for me is like the Granatelli MAF is
useless. I find both to be quite effective. For me, arguing track times would
be pointless because I will never set up my car properly to run at the track.
The idea of a 9" or 12-bolt along with a clutch and all the other drive train
parts necessary to launch the car does not interest me. Now if I were to
wind the clock back 30 years it may be a different story.
cars, so the dyno is the only tool. Even if I had a track available I would not
be there regularly. I'm very pleased with the way my car runs and all it has
seen is dyno time. I'm also sure it would run well at the track based on how
it runs in the real world. The launch is key in the 1/4 mile world and the dyno
does not do squat in that regard, but once you are moving it's not so bad.
The "dyno is useless/pointless" comment for me is like the Granatelli MAF is
useless. I find both to be quite effective. For me, arguing track times would
be pointless because I will never set up my car properly to run at the track.
The idea of a 9" or 12-bolt along with a clutch and all the other drive train
parts necessary to launch the car does not interest me. Now if I were to
wind the clock back 30 years it may be a different story.
Exactly. I have some good suspension parts to help my combo, but I'm still on Eibach Pros and stock shocks. Consistent 1.65 60ft. times NA. And that is on test and tune nights with no track prep.
I do occasional dynotuning on lt1's for a local shop and these numbers don't look terrible considering your AFR. That is FAR too lean and you will definately pick up power with more fuel. I used to run that same cam on stock heads with 1.6 rockers and I made 309rwhp/345rwtq through the 4L60E with unlocked stall...i don't remember which correction we used. I ran 12.70@108mph. My car started out at 13.2 AFR and I worked my way down to 12.4 and gained 10rwhp, 15rwtq. Your AFR goes as high as 14.2 in the upper RPMs so it is definately not getting enough fuel.
It would not surprise me in this case if you picked up 20rwhp with a tune. I'm not guaranteeing that statement, but I'm just saying it wouldn't surprise me!
Oh, also, that cam in my car stopped making power around 6100-6200 RPM so revving it just a little higher will be okay if your valve train is good for it. I can't tell in your graph if you actually let out before 6200 RPM or if your power was already falling off at WOT
It would not surprise me in this case if you picked up 20rwhp with a tune. I'm not guaranteeing that statement, but I'm just saying it wouldn't surprise me!
Oh, also, that cam in my car stopped making power around 6100-6200 RPM so revving it just a little higher will be okay if your valve train is good for it. I can't tell in your graph if you actually let out before 6200 RPM or if your power was already falling off at WOT
PS, i wouldn't be revving that high with such a lean AFR. Get the fuel added via a tune, and then rev that high. You may get an extra degree or two of spark in there at that point too which could possibly up your power a little more.
Just don't blow it up...please realize how important that AFR is to keep you from burning valves and/or pistons. Don't ask how I know! lol
Just don't blow it up...please realize how important that AFR is to keep you from burning valves and/or pistons. Don't ask how I know! lol
I should have posted this much sooner. Will be sending the pcm back to Bryan asap. I was waiting to do another mod like larger rims or injectors or something else that could be added to the tune.
- Anyone think 30# injectors will help me, or are the stockers good for quite a bit more hp?
- Anyone think 30# injectors will help me, or are the stockers good for quite a bit more hp?
96 Caprice is saying you should have done more research and post searching HERE on this board. Many many guys on here have been down the road you are on including me.
I made 380 rwhp(ish) with the same setup as you, ex, trans etc with stock ported heads and intake with a 220/224 cam through a nine inch. WIth bolts ons my 6 speed car made 310 to the tire through a stock 10 bolt and 3.73 gear.
96 Caprice is right, as hard as it is to hear it...that combo is suffering.
You would have done better with an LE1/2 setup, which has stock ported heads and a matched camshaft, and made lots more power.
AFR heads out of the box leave a little on the table.
just my .02
David
I made 380 rwhp(ish) with the same setup as you, ex, trans etc with stock ported heads and intake with a 220/224 cam through a nine inch. WIth bolts ons my 6 speed car made 310 to the tire through a stock 10 bolt and 3.73 gear.
96 Caprice is right, as hard as it is to hear it...that combo is suffering.
You would have done better with an LE1/2 setup, which has stock ported heads and a matched camshaft, and made lots more power.
AFR heads out of the box leave a little on the table.
just my .02
David
If you noticed, i am not the OP but have the same cam and was wondering what it has proven to make. I have LE1 heads and DID have an LE1 cam, but ran into smog issues. Trust me, that search function gets alot more use than the "new post" function for me.
you have to consider AFR's have 64-65 cc chambers which will substantially lower that compression. theres alot of power in that combo with a 58cc head. Even more with the 195 AFR's i'm willing to bet.
and that cam is a mismatch for those heads. too much exhaust duration split and weak lobes. 503 grind would be a nice match and you'd see your 360-375whp
and that cam is a mismatch for those heads. too much exhaust duration split and weak lobes. 503 grind would be a nice match and you'd see your 360-375whp


