Felpro 1094 head gasket
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Goochland, Va.
Felpro 1094 head gasket
I have asked before, but I need to know what needs to be done to make these work. Is it just enlarging the holes around the coolant? Whats is the best way to do this so I don't comprimise the seal.
I hope this works b/c the 1094 is going to get my quench a little closer to where I want it, I have found out the pistons are in the hole more than I thought
I hope this works b/c the 1094 is going to get my quench a little closer to where I want it, I have found out the pistons are in the hole more than I thought
Advanced Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,874
From: Under The Hood
I thought you would of have an Ls1 by now.
Btw you should be able to enlarge the holes... just as long as you don't interfere with the raised part of the gasket... if I remember correctly.
Btw you should be able to enlarge the holes... just as long as you don't interfere with the raised part of the gasket... if I remember correctly.
Last edited by Heatmaker; Sep 1, 2007 at 04:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Goochland, Va.
Thread Starter
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From: Goochland, Va.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,517
From: Engineerland
You're gonna tear **** up if you run it at .020" quench. Theres a little power to be found with running a .040" quench over the larger ones run from the factory, but its not the monumental ammount people make it out to be on here. People act as if its the holy grail of hp on here, slap it in there around .040 and use good parts and it wont ping as easily, thats about as far as it goes.
I've seen quench tightened up to .030" and less in race only engines and it didnt make any more power over the .050 quench it was running the season before. The problem with running it as tight as your talking about is when the engine wears (if its a streeter) is that your piston to bore is going to increase and thats going to increase your piston rock and somewhere in there shes gonna get too close and tear up alot of parts. Also the larger bore engines like the bbc (4.5" and over) require a larger quench than the 4" bore we use because of increased piston rock lengths.
Imo, and from experience you're looking for power that simply is not there and taking alot of risk to do it.
I've seen quench tightened up to .030" and less in race only engines and it didnt make any more power over the .050 quench it was running the season before. The problem with running it as tight as your talking about is when the engine wears (if its a streeter) is that your piston to bore is going to increase and thats going to increase your piston rock and somewhere in there shes gonna get too close and tear up alot of parts. Also the larger bore engines like the bbc (4.5" and over) require a larger quench than the 4" bore we use because of increased piston rock lengths.
Imo, and from experience you're looking for power that simply is not there and taking alot of risk to do it.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,034
From: Raleigh, NC
You might want to look more at the Mr. Gasket or Impala gaskets made for the LT1. I think the Mr. Gasket is .029" and that would be .035" quench which is about right. I'm running .039" quench with the 1074 gaskets and that's fine with me, although I just wish the bore size was smaller than 4.125".
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From: Goochland, Va.
You might want to look more at the Mr. Gasket or Impala gaskets made for the LT1. I think the Mr. Gasket is .029" and that would be .035" quench which is about right. I'm running .039" quench with the 1074 gaskets and that's fine with me, although I just wish the bore size was smaller than 4.125".
I want to be sure cause I want to get gaskets ordered and put the engine back in the car this week
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From: Goochland, Va.
I was checking it with a straight edge and feeler gauges.....and used a TDC stop bolted on the block.
Is there a better way?......
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,517
From: Engineerland
In order to find how far the piston is in or out of the hole i use a dial with a fixture that sits on the deck. its set up so i can zero the mic with it reading .100" so i can read in or out of the hole in .001" increments. you can purchase one yourself or go by a machine shop that does performance stuff they should be able to get you a reading.
The way you did it will work but its crude, another crude way to do it is with a dial indicator and a magnetic base, its extremely important to be very rigid here and perpendicular otherwise your reading will be garbage. All of this worrying about a few thousandths here assumes that you will get the expected clamping load from your bolts, and that the gaskets will compress exactly as advertised. I havent found them to compress exactly to whats advertised very often.
The way you did it will work but its crude, another crude way to do it is with a dial indicator and a magnetic base, its extremely important to be very rigid here and perpendicular otherwise your reading will be garbage. All of this worrying about a few thousandths here assumes that you will get the expected clamping load from your bolts, and that the gaskets will compress exactly as advertised. I havent found them to compress exactly to whats advertised very often.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,970
From: Goochland, Va.
In order to find how far the piston is in or out of the hole i use a dial with a fixture that sits on the deck. its set up so i can zero the mic with it reading .100" so i can read in or out of the hole in .001" increments. you can purchase one yourself or go by a machine shop that does performance stuff they should be able to get you a reading.
The way you did it will work but its crude, another crude way to do it is with a dial indicator and a magnetic base, its extremely important to be very rigid here and perpendicular otherwise your reading will be garbage. All of this worrying about a few thousandths here assumes that you will get the expected clamping load from your bolts, and that the gaskets will compress exactly as advertised. I havent found them to compress exactly to whats advertised very often.
The way you did it will work but its crude, another crude way to do it is with a dial indicator and a magnetic base, its extremely important to be very rigid here and perpendicular otherwise your reading will be garbage. All of this worrying about a few thousandths here assumes that you will get the expected clamping load from your bolts, and that the gaskets will compress exactly as advertised. I havent found them to compress exactly to whats advertised very often.
I have all the fixtures magnetic, clamp on bolt on etc. If you could tell me how you are measuring it....Thats the part I don't understand b/c I have never done this myself before. Also using my crude methods I come up with different values each time.....eveything fro .017 to.022 So thats just not going to cut it measuring it that way
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From: LA (lower Alabama)
Installed Piston Height
Piston Pin Height + Rod Length + Stroke/2
Set your indicator on the deck and "O". Use a piston stop and find TDC. Measure piston at pin C/L and that is how far it's in or out.
Piston Pin Height + Rod Length + Stroke/2
Set your indicator on the deck and "O". Use a piston stop and find TDC. Measure piston at pin C/L and that is how far it's in or out.