Failed Emissions (EVAP?)
Failed Emissions (EVAP?)
Hey guys,
I took the Z to get it tested today for the first time since the mods were put on and I failed on the test due to high HC's (limit was .80 and I had 3.55
). I got to checking over the evap system and when I pulled the inner fender cover I noticed a gassy smell. I'm not sure how to tell if the cannister needs replacing, but I also found that the line that comes from the cannister to the evap selonoid was not connected. Clould that have caused the high HC reading?
-Tony
I took the Z to get it tested today for the first time since the mods were put on and I failed on the test due to high HC's (limit was .80 and I had 3.55
). I got to checking over the evap system and when I pulled the inner fender cover I noticed a gassy smell. I'm not sure how to tell if the cannister needs replacing, but I also found that the line that comes from the cannister to the evap selonoid was not connected. Clould that have caused the high HC reading?-Tony
May I ask what you do for a living? That is a lot of mods for a 2 year period. My mod list is also a 2 yr period and i dont have sh*t. Well anyways, it looks like u dumped the air pump, that could cause it if im not mistaken. Also, i see u have slp headers, u do have all the egr on that right? Last of all the cam, arent some cams not emission friendly? Don't forget to take the car for a 20 minute cruise b4 testing, maybe longer with a 160.
I'm a computer programmer, my official title is "Information Technology Supervisor". Air pump has nothing to do with it, it only runs the first two minutes after startup to help get the cat up to temp faster. I do have the SLP headers, but the EGR stuff is removed, a sign of not enough EGR is the NOx reading would be high, but I'm well within limits on it and besides the hot cam has enough overlap in it to get the EGR effect without the EGR valve. I currently have the stock t-stat in and the temp at testing time was > than 215F.
Hopefully it was the disconnected evap line venting gas fumes into the engine comprtment that were being blown back to the rear by the fan they put in front of the car.
We'll see tommorrow.
-Tony
Hopefully it was the disconnected evap line venting gas fumes into the engine comprtment that were being blown back to the rear by the fan they put in front of the car.
We'll see tommorrow.
-Tony
did you do the IM240 test? where they put it on the rollers???
If so it is gonna be hard to pass that with all of those mods, Make sure your car is working, if you ever had a misfire for a few weeks and drove it around anyway the cat is probibly smashed.
you can test it with a infered thermomater, the cat should be at least 50 degrees hotter at the outlet then the inlet once the car is in closed loop. hook you evap system back up and try. But if your charcoal canister in the evap system is filled with fuel it could be running you rich, but if it wasnt hooked up i dont see how.
Its gonna be hard to pass that trest with that stall, because you gotta rev the **** out of it on the dyno. Your car probibly was in the 3-4k range as they go through the tests where as a stock camaro would be at like 2k.
If so it is gonna be hard to pass that with all of those mods, Make sure your car is working, if you ever had a misfire for a few weeks and drove it around anyway the cat is probibly smashed.
you can test it with a infered thermomater, the cat should be at least 50 degrees hotter at the outlet then the inlet once the car is in closed loop. hook you evap system back up and try. But if your charcoal canister in the evap system is filled with fuel it could be running you rich, but if it wasnt hooked up i dont see how.
Its gonna be hard to pass that trest with that stall, because you gotta rev the **** out of it on the dyno. Your car probibly was in the 3-4k range as they go through the tests where as a stock camaro would be at like 2k.
Test was IM93. Cat is brand new as of last week. From the sound of it they weren't revving anywhere near 3-4k. A stall only flashes to its rated stall if you hammer on it hard. I pulled the cannister off and shook it and it didn't have any fuel in it and it didn't rattle. So I guess I'll give it another try today now that its connected.
-Tony
-Tony
A couple of things......make sure that cat is very hot.....run the car up and down the highway hard for 20 or so miles with the ac on and then go to test....dont turn the car off and if the tech does make sure he waits a couple of mins after restarting to start testing so the car can get back into closed loop. Change the oil also if its been more than 500miles.
If tuned properly the hotcam will blow as good as a stock car....mine blew better when I ran that setup. I just passed a few days ago with the 230/236.
If tuned properly the hotcam will blow as good as a stock car....mine blew better when I ran that setup. I just passed a few days ago with the 230/236.
Ack
Failed again much worse than last test. HC's jumped to 7.64 and CO jumped to 21.40. After the tech pulled the car up and shut it off, I came out of the waiting area and walked around behind the car and there was a VERY noticable gas smell near the left rear. Carbon canister must be bad and I dont think the advice I found here is any good for a dyno emissions test (cut spark adv by 50%) as it only made things worse. Got a few things on order now, maybe overkill, but I just want to cover all the bases as I dont want to get to that fifth fail as it requires a meeting with a state appointed "referee" and a full under hood inspection. So I ordered new plug wires, opti (been squeaking for a while now anyway), O2 sensors, carbon canister, evap noid & pressure control valve.
Failed again much worse than last test. HC's jumped to 7.64 and CO jumped to 21.40. After the tech pulled the car up and shut it off, I came out of the waiting area and walked around behind the car and there was a VERY noticable gas smell near the left rear. Carbon canister must be bad and I dont think the advice I found here is any good for a dyno emissions test (cut spark adv by 50%) as it only made things worse. Got a few things on order now, maybe overkill, but I just want to cover all the bases as I dont want to get to that fifth fail as it requires a meeting with a state appointed "referee" and a full under hood inspection. So I ordered new plug wires, opti (been squeaking for a while now anyway), O2 sensors, carbon canister, evap noid & pressure control valve.
At this point you need to do some logging and see what your BLMs look like.....ie are they in the pcm range to adjust the fuel or not .Replacing the things you mentioned is good ideal but I would still log the car before I went back.
It's probally too rich for one thing. I had a fairly modded 95 ta. It had a hoolwed cat also. I ended up replacing the plus, 02 sensors, oil, etc... It barely passed even then. The o2 sensors were very black from being rich and they would read write, along with the plugs which were black. I'd try leaning it out and getting it nice and hot for the test.
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