Extreme newbie needs advice
New motor
If you can save for a new motor i would.............once a motor had that many problems sometimes you can never get it quit right. But if you are doing all the work yourself.......go for it-you will learn a lot. But if you are paying labor for all this no-way!!
If you can save for a new motor i would.............once a motor had that many problems sometimes you can never get it quit right. But if you are doing all the work yourself.......go for it-you will learn a lot. But if you are paying labor for all this no-way!!
I second the poly mount.. Dont waste your time with a stock mount. go to the link 2 replys ago and get the one for 20.99, a stock one will cost the same.. in my opinion the poly make ths car feel like it wants to eat something(good).. kinda makes the car rumble(youll like it)... as for your oil leak.. you can rule out the rear main seal, you might have that leak as well but i dought it if your smoking.. I have a rear main leak and an intake leak and neither made the car smoke smell.. my guess is its the valve covers.. check your gaskets.... rear end making noise is because no one has really cleaned it.. probably have alot of gunk and crap in there. i did.. here is what i did... I changed the oil and put cheap synthetic stuff in with no posi additive(didnt see the need to put it in 2wice and spend more money), i drove around for 500 miles and changed the oil again, the oil i changed the second time was just as dirty as the first and my noise stopped.. be sure to clean the magnet on the stock dif. cover.. also if that doesnt work you can check your universal joints on your drive shaft, sometimes they get old and make noise, i would think they would make noise all the time though.. hmm any way you can do a quick check on them easily, put the car in park and get under it and grad the drive shaft in the middle and try to shake it, if it shakes its not bad it just means the universal joints are bad.. i think the uni's only cost like 20 bucks each, the biatch is having a place put them on.. also to see if you have a rear main look under your car and check if you have oil on the bottom of your car, rear main seals coat the whole bottom, it could also be an intake manifold leak too because it leaks down into the same place, check behind your intake and if you have oil then it may be the rear main as well but atleast you know that you have an intake leak.. if i were you i wouldnt do it myself either but ill save that story for another time.. anyway if there is no intake leak then its the rear main seal.. a real pita to change, involves taking the tranni out aswell. Also just for the heck of it check your oil level sensor, mine leaked at one point as well as the rear main, just check around it for oil, simple install on that.. But as long as your smelling oil burning i would check the valve cover gaskets... and the oil on the butter flys shouldnt be there, thats there for a pressure thing.. Chances are you may need a new throttle body gasket, mine was all melted and was letting oil in, clean it up replace the gasket and clean the blades and it shouldnt come back.. change your pcv valve wether or not it works, i change mine every oil change and the rear end oil every two oil changes.... i hope this helps ya.. by the way sweet car.. if your looking to spice up the looks as well a buddy of mine sells vinyl stripes in any color you want.. www.colebrothers.com im not sure if he has the camaro stripes on his website but they are on ebay, he might have my silve Z on the page as well, they look nice and if you want his name is steve and call him up and tell him Nick from FL sent ya..
Last edited by CoUnTryMuZiCZ28; Oct 1, 2003 at 06:23 PM.
After more inspection today, it looks as though the rear main is fine. It appears the majority of oil is coming from rear passenger side valve cover. That is on the agenda for tomorrow's things to do list. Throttle body gasket is being replaced as well. The bigger and more serious problem we encountered today is it appears water has/is mixed with the oil. We havent dumped the oil all the way but my friend the mechanic says it still may not be a head gasket but we are checking it out asap. He said when the waterpump went out and sprayed the coolant (engine was stained up top from the spray) that the throttle body boot was ripper pretty badly on the bottom and may have just sucked the water in that way. We are gonna change valve cover gaskets tomorrow and will get a better look at amount of water when those are removed. I am going with stock tranny mount tomorrow as well, I know the advantages of the poly but at this time I am going stock. He has a lift so replacing it later with poly if/when needed is an easy and quick process. At this point after removing the valve covers and checking the amount of water in the oil, if not too major we are gonna fix gaskets and do complete oil change and run it for a bit, low rpm's only, if water in oil seems to get better we will just flush with a couple of back to back oil changes. If water seems to be still getting in as we do this then we will go after the head gasket. He says that if head gasket was blown then we should have an overheating issue and poor running motor (motor maintains temp now, never goes above 184 degrees and engine sounds smooth with no apparent noises) Hopefully the head gasket is fine but we are slowly making our way into the engine and will do whatever it takes to save this fine F-body. One other thing we managed to get done today is the drivers side power window motor. Not a big issue at all but if/when the time comes that it has to be moved out of the bay to make room for regular paying customers I dont have to worry about getting water in the interior. Window was stuck about an inch from all the way. Well, thanks for all the suggestions, keep them coming as it seems you folks know exactly what to do. So far you have kept me from taking it straight to a mechanic where it would cost me big bucks.
As always, thanks!
noob
As always, thanks!
noob
Also on an auto bro i would change the oil asap!!! forgot to mention that i think.. they are notorious for going bad.. if you need to rebuild it eventually dont go to any regular shop, they will only rebuild it to stock specs... have a performance shop do it and "beef" it up so it can handle any abuse you can throw at it. they cost the same amount to get them rebuilt to stock or to performance.... also if you have any questions about your car and need an answere quick you can try this site::: http://www.autosite.com/garage/symptoms/trblsht.asp ::::::: just click what your problem is and it will give you ways to check and things that could be wrong with the car... I sometimes need an answere quick and look there instead of posting it..
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