If to the point in my header install that the manifolds are ready to be removed. What is the "safest" way to do this without breaking the bolts off. I 'm thinking an impact might be a bit much but not sure. Will I need a swivel head socket for any of the bolts? Any tips for certain bolts? I hate surprises when I work on this thing.


Thanks guys

Adam

p.s. What is the torque specs when I put the new headers on for the manifold bolts? I don't want to strip some heads.

I dont think youd be able to fit an impact wrechn on many of the bolts, and if you did youd run a big risk of snapping one. Use a ratchet. You may have to lubricate a few bolts, but theyll all break loose. Just get good leverage on them.

You may need a swivel head to get to the bolt on the number 2 cylinder. After removing the alternator, you can see it, but getting to it can be a pain. I disconnected the power steering hose to free up more room around it. The passenger side is the hardest, drivers side a piece of cake.

As for torque specs... I'm not sure. Just dont over tighten them, aluminum is soft.. I torqued all of mine firmly and havent had any problems. Just make sure to retighten them after a day or 2 of driving to make sure theyre staying tight.

Thanks Steve0! Any other good tips welcomed!

Adam

PB Blaster on any exhaust bolts is a good idea. Then a breaker bar and a cheater if necessary and go easy.

Stock exhaust manifold bolt torque is 26 lb ft.

Perfect! Thank you !

adam

Torque spec is... tight enough.

If you can get a torque wrench up in there then

I gave the spec as reference so a person could calibrate their arm when using whatever tool is necessary.

I soaked all of mine in WD-40 for a day before I pulled 'em. They all came right out. That is what I would reccomend to you, no doubt.

LOL! Yes, yes. I've got a bench setup with various bolts and nuts attached to a block of wood. When I'm getting ready to work on the Z/SS, I use my "bench setup" and torque wrench to properly calibrate my elbow before digging in with ground down, bent, and hacked up "specialized" tools

j/k

LOL! thanks again guys...I've got the bolts soaking and I'm resting my elbow!

Adam

You shouldn't have a problem. Seems like the factory used anti-seize on the manifold bolts. Mine came right out with zero problems. Getting them back in was a pain though...

Here's why:

http://www.ramair95ta.com/tech/caminstall/oops.JPG

Doh!

Intersting.. I had to tap one of my bolt holes as well. I'm not sure why either. The bolt came out fine, but when I tried to hand thread my new bolt, it just woudlnt work. I could turn it maybe 3 rotations and then itd get stuck.

Did you have the saem problem as me, or did you accidently cross a thread?

LOL you had to re-tap the back one?? Sucks! I started to cross thread my front passenger side one.. so I got out the tap and ran it through to clean it up..

Shoebox... is it 26 ft-lbs? I torqued one of my stage 8's to 30 ft-lbs to get a feel, then did the rest by hand... my Chiltons book said 30 ft-lbs. Should I be ok??

Strangely enough, thats what happened. I could only get it in one or two threads perfectly straight, then the bolt would **** to the side....so I ran a tap through it.

Even more strangely, the SAME BOLT on the opposite side did the EXACT SAME THING! I ended up having to retap both of the back header bolts.