I plan to one day build this into a supercharged 383, so I want to do everything right as I do it.

This is what I had in mind:

Comp Pro Mags 7/16"
ARP 7/16" Studs ( Normal Length or Long ? I thought Normal)
GM Guide Plates
LT4 Hot Cam Springs ( I will upgrade these once I build the motor, but I want to match them to my needs and not have overkill springs in the mean time.)

Is there any Double Springs that are close in spring rate and everything to the LT4 HC Springs ?

New Locks, and Retainers.


Now my next question,

Where should I purchase everything? who has the best prices? Jegs has some pretty good deals but I dont think I can get the proper locks, retainers, and springs from them? Also anyone know where I can get the Guide Plates ?


Is there anything else I need to build a rock solid valve train? This motor will ( RIGHT NOW ) NOT see over 6000RPM's. Actually, I shift her at about 5700ish?

 

Looks good to me, i dont see why you would need longer studs though, prices are gonna be a toss up check combination motorsports and the rest of the vendors on here, they usually are pretty close in pricing. I have the same setup in valvetrain minus springs and i spin mine to 6600 almost every day.

 

my opinion , ditch the hotcam springs and get some comp springs

 

Yeah the 525 lift holds ya back if u deside to go to a bigger cam later

 

i went with

7/16 ARP studs
7/16 comp pro mags
ARP guideplates
Comps Chromally hardened pushrods
and 918 beehive springs
10 degree locks/retainers

think thats pretty bulletproof-

 

The only reason I was jsut going to go with hotcam springs is that their 40$ and I plan on getting a custom ground cam later once I have the cash ( In a few years ) for a fully forged stroker motor.

But I am open to suggestions for springs that are better than the Hot Cam springs and not that much more expensive. I origionally planned to match the springs to the cam once I get one but in the meantime was going to go with the hot cam springs.

Any suggestions? Prices on the springs also?

Also, I figured I had the hardened pushrods, so they would be sufficient until I build the motor, so theres no sense in doing it twice right??? Plus its not that hard to pull a valve vocer, loosen rockers, and switch pushrods out ...

I will be borrowing a valve spring compressor from work, one that SHOULD fit under the cowl area, as well as one of the fittings to pressurize the cylinders

 

Also what are the advantages and disadvantages of different degree locks and retainers? I havent found much on this subject. Or where I could find them? Their not in the Jeg's catalog but maybe their online ?

 

With the 918's don't you have to get the locators/spring seats as well?

 

yes you do

also if u go with guideplates u need hardened pushrods so its worth it. Also when you do it - follow the guide on shoebox site- it worked great- on it you can rotate the engine to TDC and do half the valves- then rotate it another 180 degrees i believe and finsih it-. much easier. as far as valve spring compressor - easiest i found was the old fanished one pictured here. autozone sells them for 20$ i believe... i tried one of these and under the cowl it was impossible to use...never mind my old egr hook up

 

I thought if your car came with the factory hardened pushrods, you could use guideplates without having to buy new rods?

I was going to use my stock pushrods for now. Until I get the custom cam, and springs later ?

 

Bulletproof and cheap don't go together.

You have to run hardened pushrods with guideplates, if not your going to be FAR from bulletproof.

This is what I would suggest:

Comp Pro Mags 7/16"
ARP 7/16" Pro Series Studs
ISKY Adjustable Guide Plates
Comp Beehive Springs, Steel Retainers and Machined Locks
New Spring Locators
New Valve Seals (Viton would be my choice)
Comp 5/16 Hi Tech Pushrods

That is the best way to go on all the parts, plus you are basically setup for a custom cam later on, you save the time and cost of parts that you don't need later.

Bret

 

So that guideplate will work on an LT1? I knew they were off slightly from a regular SBC, so I wasnt sure which guideplates would work.

Any idea where I can order this stuff from? Im trying to get as much as I can from the least amount of companies as possible so that I dont get blasted with crazy shipping costs.

As far as teh Comp Bee Hive Springs, these were what I found??? http://www.lmperformance.com/6333/1.html but then again, springs are springs. I thought they came in different spring rates but apparently not?

 

The ISKY Guide Plates, which would be best suited for my application? I was looking breifly at it and thought the 300 AGP would be best. Its the adjustable one which is 3/8"s thick.

 

I also never really gave new spring locators much thought. But I guess the Isky valve spring locators would be fine. Their made to fit over .565 in. and .625 in. o.d. valve guides so that would fit an LT1

 

Just when I think im starting to know a little bit about how I want to modify this thing ... lol Thanks though. Seriously. I appriciate it. You've helped me on here more times than I can count.

I dont know if you remember, but I was that pesky kid that kept posting dumb questions in LT1 tech about 2 and a half years ago ? I bought my car totalled, and rebuilt it myself. I learned a ton in the process, and every time I got stuck, you or shoebox were around to point me in the right direction. So I guess partial credit has to be given to you guys for me having the sweetest car in highschool in 12th grade. Anyways, I just wanted to thank you cause no matter how stupid of a question someone asks, your one of the few people on this board who dont bash and flame them for it and will try and explain things.