1SlowFormula: It makes perfect sense. When you remove the spring the valve will no longer be on the seat, it will slide into the chamber. You don't need a heavy duty air compressor to do the job, but if you still can't get one you are rolling the dice. I would never trust the friction between a rubber seal and a smooth metal part to be the deciding factor in a job I did. You guys can do any thing to your own cars in any manner that you choose. The right way (in my opinion) is the one that is the fastest and most reliable way to correctly finish a job. I am just trying to help, I have been there and done that, but do what you want how you want. How people go about setting lash (if required) has absolutly nothing to do with the spring installation method.

 

I wish there was a vid of this being done on an lt1, you can list stuff to do all you want - it's just a bit intimidating to me because I've never done anything like this before. Now granted I turn my own wrenches, I've done timing chains on other cars etc.

But when it comes to my TA I like to be well informed and well prepared!

Anyone do a before and after dyno?

 

So whos got the best deal on LT4 Springs/Locks/Retainters etc

 

Probably Dal or Jason Cromer. Their prices are lower than GMPartsDirect.com. My order from Dal was less than $100 and it was LT4 valvesprings, shims, locks, retainers, and new valve seals.

 

I got mine from Dal and can't remember the total right now but it was much better then GMPD...

 

http://www.sdpc2000.com/

Found it, 32$ for LT4 Springs

i'll call up Dal aswell get a quote from him

 

are the shims really necessary? Ive run all those parts on stock shims and it seemed fine. Ive also done both the air comrpessor and tdc method. Air compressor method is a ****ing bitch to screw into each spark plug adds about 2 hours to the job. Using the tdc method and the comp cams spring compresser which you just use a ratchet and it inbolts 2 springs at once. I could do the who job in under 2 hours.