Even More MSD Opti Problems
08-31-2007, 07:24 AM
#31
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However, it did give me an opportunity inspect the new Allen screws and red thread-locker and learn I've finally fixed that problem.
I've got another NHRA points race this weekend, so I'm ready to go now. As-long-as something else doesn't break! Also, I appreciate Ellis helping me with the contact at MSD.
WD
Last edited by The Engineer; 08-31-2007 at 07:28 AM.
08-31-2007, 08:05 AM
#32
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This was a strange failure of the MSD optical modue. Again, the distributor is only about two months old.
However, it did give me an opportunity inspect the new Allen screws and red thread-locker and learn I've finally fixed that problem.
I've got another NHRA points race this weekend, so I'm ready to go now. As-long-as something else doesn't break! Also, I appreciate Ellis helping me with the contact at MSD.
WD
However, it did give me an opportunity inspect the new Allen screws and red thread-locker and learn I've finally fixed that problem.
I've got another NHRA points race this weekend, so I'm ready to go now. As-long-as something else doesn't break! Also, I appreciate Ellis helping me with the contact at MSD.
WD
11-04-2007, 09:29 PM
#33
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11-05-2007, 08:08 AM
#34
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The factory MSD #6-32 phillips screws are "short" 1/4" (.250") with a tapered tip. I also had to trim the OD on the #6 flat washers. Use some red thread-locker and get the screws tight!
Knock-on-wood, my MSD has been working great for several months and races now.
WD
11-05-2007, 08:47 AM
#35
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i foud some lock washers at my fathers house and used them. of course i am back to a stock opti with a LTCC , that i will die for, before someone takes it from me. so far my lock washers have been fine for 1 month ruuning 7 grad.
A commercial fastener store would have them. I used stainless steel allen socket-heads, #6-32 x 3/8" long then trimed the length back slightly for clearance (with a belt sander). They need to be as-long-as possible to catch the most number of threads.
The factory MSD #6-32 phillips screws are "short" 1/4" (.250") with a tapered tip. I also had to trim the OD on the #6 flat washers. Use some red thread-locker and get the screws tight!
Knock-on-wood, my MSD has been working great for several months and races now.
WD
The factory MSD #6-32 phillips screws are "short" 1/4" (.250") with a tapered tip. I also had to trim the OD on the #6 flat washers. Use some red thread-locker and get the screws tight!
Knock-on-wood, my MSD has been working great for several months and races now.
WD
11-05-2007, 05:26 PM
#37
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why? in my eyes the lock washers would hold the bolt/screw and the plastic surface. wheres the flat washer is smoother than the plastic and would be prone to allow the bolt/screw to slip during heavy vibration.
11-05-2007, 06:00 PM
#38
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However, it’s your distributor; therefore you can experiment with any option you choose. I’m just letting everyone know what has worked for me, based on my theories and some trial-and-error.
WD
11-05-2007, 06:09 PM
#39
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We had the same thing happen last night with a STOCK opti.
We are working with MSD on there small problems. One of them is the loctite breaks down the plastic. Does not mater if you have a stock opti or an MSD.
The more you put on the worse you make the problem
I will be calling the Engineering Dept tomorrow I will point out this thread for them
We are working with MSD on there small problems. One of them is the loctite breaks down the plastic. Does not mater if you have a stock opti or an MSD.
The more you put on the worse you make the problem
I will be calling the Engineering Dept tomorrow I will point out this thread for them
11-05-2007, 06:12 PM
#40
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I ended up not using any washers on my cap/rotor kit since the washers they supplied wouldn't fit. I guess I'll try to grind some down while I have it apart. BTW nice launch pic, it looks like you have your suspension figured out. 
11-05-2007, 07:03 PM
#41
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WD
11-05-2007, 07:08 PM
#43
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Thanks - I've been wondering about that everytime I see someone locktited one of those. I've never had one come loose, so have never tried it. Also, I have never locktited anything but metal, so I never thought of using it on plastic. I seem to remember it attacking Lexan or Plexiglass or something when I was in a machine shop, so I knew that was a potential problem.
11-06-2007, 11:28 AM
#45
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WD,
Coincidentally, the vented cap and rotor that I installed on my modified 94 opti (originally unvented) looked exactly like the cap you've shown in the fragged rotor pics. Those notches that you see on the top of the rotor in pic # 3078 are from the rotor hitting the U-shaped ridges in the cap ceiling. My cap and rotor were doing exactly the same thing, although I had mine apart before it grenaded like that! The original cap that came off the 94 opti had just one circumferential ridge running just inside the posts - the rotor doesn't get anywhere close to touching it, so I ended up re-using the original cap after adding a vent and new rotor button to it.
Coincidentally, the vented cap and rotor that I installed on my modified 94 opti (originally unvented) looked exactly like the cap you've shown in the fragged rotor pics. Those notches that you see on the top of the rotor in pic # 3078 are from the rotor hitting the U-shaped ridges in the cap ceiling. My cap and rotor were doing exactly the same thing, although I had mine apart before it grenaded like that! The original cap that came off the 94 opti had just one circumferential ridge running just inside the posts - the rotor doesn't get anywhere close to touching it, so I ended up re-using the original cap after adding a vent and new rotor button to it.
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