Question for some of the guys that have done an engine swap on these cars. Is it something that a beginner should even attempt? When I say beginner I mean that the most complicated work I have done to this car is change the opti, starter, alternator, water pump etc. I have never attempted anything this difficult. Also keep in mind that I don't have a access to a lift so I will try to use the out the bottom method and use an engine lift to lift the frame. Is this a stupid idea for someone that doesn't know what they are doing?

 

You had done more with your than I had with mine and I went out the top then a few months later out the bottom. I think out the bottom is easier. If you choose to do it I will look and see if I can find the two links I have that give very good instructions. I made more mistakes putting parts on my longblock to go back in.


Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

 

How to remove the engine from the bottom - LS1 fbody - LS1TECH

How I pulled my 4th gen LT1 Motor out the bottom

 

I suppose it depends on your definition of engine swap. When you say "swap" it eludes that you're removing the current motor and replacing it with something else. What exactly are you doing?

If you're just pulling the motor then there isn't much to it. I'd say out the bottom is the best method, assuming you have SOME mechanical ability.

 

I am just looking to pull the engine out and replace it with a remanufactured one. I just want to make the car mobile again, not really looking to build a street rod. I am assuming the engine is shot because it has a knocking noise and there was gasoline in the oil. I had a previous thread about it on here:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...advice-874351/

 

Gasoline in the oil is usually the result of a leaking fuel pressure regulator, leaking injector, or running extremely rich. Oil thinned with gasoline can cause a knock, but that doesn't mean the engine is "shot" unless you drove it a long time with the diluted oil and the knock.

This was explained to you in the previous thread, but you never responded.

Have you eliminated the source of the fuel dilution, and replaced the oil with fresh oil? If so, is the knock still there?

 

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and then listened to the injectors with a stethoscope and they all sounded the same so I assumed it was bad rings or a damaged piston allowing the fuel to pass through. (But then again, I am very much an amateur at this so I don't really know what the injectors are supposed to sound like). I replaced the oil with fresh oil and the knock was still there so I just figured there was a mechanical failure internally. I would be open to any suggestions before I spend the money on a new engine.

 

Maybe do a compression check and have your injectors flowed & cleaned. Maybe get a second opinion on the knock sound to make sure it is a rod and not a lifter tick or something - how is the oil pressure???. I suppose you could pull the pan and look at the rod bearings, but that is also a bit of work. Even if you decide to rip it out and replace it, you might run into other problems, so best to hone your troubleshooting skills beforehand and think logically about what is really wrong with it. When you drain the oil, is it all glittery? Got bearing material in there?

 

Are you sure it was fuel in the oil and not water? I agree with what was said above and definately look at the oil pressure. When my daughter spun a bearing in my honda the pressure dropped so bad idiot light was on and before the noise was even bad. You could also pull the fuel rails up and get a quick inspection of leaky injectors. Was the fpr confirmed as the leak( like fuel in the vacuum line)? Hard to hear much in your video. If it were mine I would probably do as recomended above because you will need good perfoming injectors with rebuild so having them cleaned, checked out, and flowed is a good investment. The compression check would serve a dual purpose as you would see the shape of plugs also as you may have one fouled out bad. If car was started then knowing plugs were good, compression good, and injectors good, oil pressure and visual inspection good then if noise is still present might be easier to determine course of action.


Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

 

Thanks for the responses. I am certain that it was gasoline in the oil and not water judging by the smell. Also I did not find any metal shaving in the oil, I even took a magnet and moved it around in the pan. I did check the vacuum line and it was clean.

As far as pulling the fuel rails up would I just pull them up and then turn the key on to see if gas was dripping out? I can imagine if I tried to start the engine then they would spray gas everywhere. If I do decide to replace the engine I would definitely get a new set of injectors but it sure would be nice to know that was the problem before hand. I will try to do a compression check this weekend sometime. Thanks for the suggestions.