I am in the process of removing my engine and going to build a 383. I called a local shop here and they said that they would do the rebuild for 3500 but would not warantee the engine because of the aftermarket parts. This sounds like a total rip off to me. So my question is, am I better off purchasing a shortblock 383 or sending it to someone out of state who does this work particularly for our engines?

I am looking for Scat 9000 Crank, 4340 Eagle H beam rods, SRP Pistons, and clevite bearings.

I am looking to do 400HP N/A.

I cant beleive the rediculious prices in my town!

I am skeptical on doing the rebuild myself because I dont own all the tools and It would be my first rebuild. I have read the rebuild books, it doesnt sound too hard, but the tools required are very expensive.

 

Give us a call. We have a much better price on the 383 shortblock than what you were quoted locally. Also if you have any question just let us know.

Thanks

 

Did that $3500 include parts or was that just labor? Also, you might want to look at an eagle "ESP" crank (thats what I have) I have heard that they are better than the scats and are right around the same price. You should check out Seco performance (www.secoperformance.com you have to order b phone though) you can get a good deal on the crank(eagle like I have $209) and rods ($199 for eagle "SIR" forged lightweight 6" bushed rods).

Where are you located? If anywhere near central Illinois I can point you to serveral good machine shops and speed shops that could build it for you.

 

Unfortunantly I am in the great land of the North. Alaska...

That just included labor, no parts. Then he tried to go on how the 383 was an iffy motor but wouldnt tell me why... Hmmm... And these people are supposed to be a well recognized shop around here...?!?!

I was removing the exhaust manifold and managed to strip the 5th bolt. There is only 1/4" left in the head so I removed almost all of the bolt. Think I could just reuse the old bolt or do I need to get it redrilled and tapped?

 

You need to have that bolt taken out and unless you are good with an E-Z out I would take it somewhere. I had to bolts break in my heads and when I sent them to Lloyd Elliot he took them out for me. What are you having done with the heads?

 

I am having them ported/polished by Lloyd when things settle down with his family issues at hand. I am going to go with his LE3 setup, head/cam.

Also, I was wondering if I had to remove the intake manifold to remove the engine. It looks like a PITA to get to. I removed the exhaust manny.

 

No you dont have to remove it but, if you do its really not that bad. I pulled my engine and tranny together out the top. I had two people helping and it took about 2 hours once I had everything unhooked.

 

Ok cool! I was able to unbolt the exhaust manifold, but the flange that goes downwards toward the cat is too stiff. I think I will be needing some air impact tools. I may just try and remove the engine and hope it slides past and the bolts from that flang later.

I almost got all wires unplugged. Do I have to unplug any wires to the actual PCM?

 

In the process of removing the engine. I was wondering what bolts I need to remove in order to remove the tranny from the driveshaft so I can pull the engine/tranny in one swoop. I have an engine rebuild book and a chiltons and neither one explains what to do in order to remove the engine from the car.

Thanks.

 

There are not any on the trans. side of the driveshaft to remove. You have to take the torque arm of(the long A wedge shaped thing that runs parallel) to the driveshaft, then remove the two u-joint cradles(four bolts where the driveshaft meets the rear). After that drop the back end of the driveshaft down ans slide it out of the back of the transmission(it is conected by a splined shaft only). I think thats what you wanted directions for, if not post up and Ill explain whatever ya need.

 

Thanks. Thats exactly what I needed.

 

Ok. So I removed all of the electrical connections that are routed on top of the engine and go down to the bottom, IE: Tranny, oilpan etc. The one that makes a "Y" and one leg of the "Y" goes to the passenger side of the valve cover and the other leg of the "Y" goes to the drivers side of the valve cover.

I removed the intake manifold and all connections in the back IE: EGR and PCV.

I removed the radiator, intake, and all coolant/oil hoses in the front area. So basically what is left is the pulleys and the water pump.

I noticed that there was a ground wire on a bolt that was on the bottom drivers side of the engine. Is there any others anywhere else that I should be worried about? I also unbolted the exhaust manifold to make it easier to remove.

I just want to make sure I didnt forget something and ruin something in the process.

Thanks again. You guys have been very helpful.

AP Engineering, I went ahead and sent you an email.

-Kendall

 

Thanks Kendall, what email did you send it to? I checked mine and did not see one from you.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Sorry, I sent it to Sales instead of Engine building. Guess I should have read your signature so I would have known who to send it to.

I went ahead and forwarded the email to you as well.