Alright, here we go. I have a 94 z28 with the 6-speed trans that has 178,000 miles on it. Its time for a rebuild and I have a few questions.

Pistons, are they lt1 specific, or will any old sbc piston work?
Same for the rods, I have a set of 5.7 forged full floater rods that I was wondering if I could use?

Crank - probaly reuse the one thats in it, unless there is something up once I get this thing apart.

Cam - I am thinking about an lt4 hot cam, but I am looking for a noticably rough idle, I hate to say this, but I really love the sounds of the lt1 with a rough idle, I know this isn't ideal!

Also, I was wondering how far I can go with things without tuning the computer? How big of cam and such?

Also, what kind of port work can be done with the stock heads? I have never done aluminum heads, only cast.

Alright, thats all I can think of right now, but I am sure I will have more questions. Oh yeah, and to give a little background, this won't be my first build, probaly more like 50th. I have a 1978 nova with a 355 that pulled 676 hp on the dyno, with the motor I built myself. Just telling you this so you don't think I am too much of a newb (?)

Thanks in advance for your help! And please keep in mind I am on a budget because I am a poor college student!

Ryan

 

the pistons are lt-1 specific. Not sure about the rods but I would imagine so since everything else is different. Is there anything wrong with the motor right now? If not why not go this route.... get the block hot tanked, have the machinist check tolerences, have the decks leveled, hone the cylinders (not bored), new freeze plugs, new rings, new main bearings, new rod bearings, new cam bearings, and have the pistons and rods cleaned up. You can get pretty crazy with the porting of the heads but not nessessary with the hotcam. Stock or a mild porting will work just fine. I would have them decked as well. They are prone to warping. The LT-4 hotcam specs are 219/228 duration, .525/.525 lift, on a 114 lsa. It is a noticiably rough cam. I would also reccommend a double roller timing set and a e/ waterpump. The reason I say that is because with a bigger cam you will want to install a heavy duty timing set. The stock set could break especially since yours has 178k miles. The standard heavy duty set is more expensive than a double roller and e/waterpump. And to answer another question, the computer will need a tune. A mail order tune works great with that cam since it is a widely used cam. And another thing, you won't get treated like a newb for asking questions. That's what this board is all about.

 

Are there any overheating concerns with the electric water pump? Do you just install a plug in the timing cover hole for the drive rod? Does that mean that I can use a regular sbc dual roller timing set?

Oh yeah, where would I find this computer tune?

Thanks again!
Ryan

 

do a search on the e-water pump. myself and some others do not recomend them for street use. alot of people use a stock replacement chain so you can use a stock water pump. its cheaper plus the hot cam is not much more radical than the stock cam. i'm useing a stock replacment chain with a 224/230 cam. i would recomend geting a tune with any other than stock cam. you will get better performance and drivability.

 

i used pcmforless and i'm happy with there results. or you could use madwolf.

 

Why not? I have never heard anyone having problems with e/waterpumps on the street.

The hotcam is quite a bit more radicial than a stock cam. Most people underestimate the size of it. It is by far not the biggest but it is not the smallest either. I would put it in the mid size class. 219/228 duration is not bad at all. And about the timing chain...Have you ever seen the inside of a motor when the timing chain broke? It is not a pretty sight. A Cloyes double roller set is about $80 and a CSR waterpump is $150. I look at it as cheap insurance. If you are already putting over a grand into your motor...why not spend another $230?


By the way, I also used www.pcmforless.com They did a great job.