Engine Rebuild Options
Engine Rebuild Options
Well i decided i want to rebuild my engine before it destroys itself and was wondering about what i should do. I love the idea of a 383 but not sure how much this would add to the over all cost of the rebuild. Also i was later thinking about nitrous and have decided after the rebuild in buying a turbo system. Just need a little info on cost just so i dont go too overboard.
I have found some 383 kits for fairly cheap on ebay BUT they didn't appear to be forged and with nitrous I believe forged is the only viable option... May try sourcing parts together... But with a turbo you will absolutely change the dynamics of the car.
A stout bottom end isn't going to be cheap. Are you planning on doing this yourself? Or buy a bottom end? There are some good sponsors on this site who really do a good job.
Otherwise, I'd call and find a good machinist shop in your area. Ask if they perform Blok-Tru and Bore-Tru tasks... if they look at you with a blank stare then move on.
From there, Scat makes a good crank as well as Callies. It's 50/50 with Eagle. Go with quality rods and you can raise them to 6" from 5.7" depending on your build. You'll need to decide if you are going turbo or not since that will affect the piston selection.
Calculate a good DCR around 7.5 - 8.0, the lower the better.
Otherwise, I'd call and find a good machinist shop in your area. Ask if they perform Blok-Tru and Bore-Tru tasks... if they look at you with a blank stare then move on.
Incorrectly machined cylinder block deck surfaces caused by necessary factory machine tolerances and production line inaccuracies have long plagued the automotive machinist. These errors create a number of problems, which can be address with the BHJ BLOK-TRU
The BLOK-TRU is a precision machined fixture which has a true 45 degree angle machined off each side of it's own centerline. The BLOK-TRU index plate when installed on the cam crank centerline of the block is then referenced to roll over and correctly index the block into position for the resurfacing operation.
When the BLOK-TRU is set up all angular dimensions can be corrected.
Most problems caused for the deck height being uneven are, uneven deck clearances, poor intake manifold fit and sealing. We have seen deck height vary for side to side as much as .007 thousandths, and as mush as .010 thousandths from front to rear. The BHJ BLOK-TRU kit will correct this problem and square up the block to the correct angularity.
The BLOK-TRU is a precision machined fixture which has a true 45 degree angle machined off each side of it's own centerline. The BLOK-TRU index plate when installed on the cam crank centerline of the block is then referenced to roll over and correctly index the block into position for the resurfacing operation.
When the BLOK-TRU is set up all angular dimensions can be corrected.
Most problems caused for the deck height being uneven are, uneven deck clearances, poor intake manifold fit and sealing. We have seen deck height vary for side to side as much as .007 thousandths, and as mush as .010 thousandths from front to rear. The BHJ BLOK-TRU kit will correct this problem and square up the block to the correct angularity.
The BOR-TRU is specially designed for cylinder bore location on semi-finished factory cylinder blocks. These blocks have rough-bored holes which must be accurately aligned before the finish boring operation. The BOR-TRU can also be used on any stock block when a sufficient overbore will allow correction of out of position cylinders.
The BOR-TRU Kit is the only commercially available fixture that enables the machinist to quickly and accurately locate the cylinder bores over the correct crankshaft centerline. When properly installed, the BOR-TRU references from the rear main surface or rear main thrust surface (depending on block configuration) as a zero datum for front to rear positioning of the fixture on the deck surface. In addition, it spaces the bores at the correct center-to-center distance from one another. BOR-TRU option will only apply to block desiring an over bore of .040, 95% of the production blocks will not clean up at .030 due to the poor level of factory production machining.
The BOR-TRU Kit is the only commercially available fixture that enables the machinist to quickly and accurately locate the cylinder bores over the correct crankshaft centerline. When properly installed, the BOR-TRU references from the rear main surface or rear main thrust surface (depending on block configuration) as a zero datum for front to rear positioning of the fixture on the deck surface. In addition, it spaces the bores at the correct center-to-center distance from one another. BOR-TRU option will only apply to block desiring an over bore of .040, 95% of the production blocks will not clean up at .030 due to the poor level of factory production machining.
Calculate a good DCR around 7.5 - 8.0, the lower the better.
most machine shops will tell you that both of those processes are pointless on a street motor
and you can safely run some nitrous without a forged bottom end, just depends how much. and forged pistons always help
and you can safely run some nitrous without a forged bottom end, just depends how much. and forged pistons always help
If you're going through the trouble then why not? The procedures do add to the price but not that much IMO. I'd rather have it set right from the beginning along with a few other processes.
nobody said anything about not doing it right, taken right from the description posted
BOR-TRU option will only apply to block desiring an over bore of .040, 95% of the production blocks will not clean up at .030 due to the poor level of factory production machining.
if you dont believe me call a few machine shops and ask
BOR-TRU option will only apply to block desiring an over bore of .040, 95% of the production blocks will not clean up at .030 due to the poor level of factory production machining.
if you dont believe me call a few machine shops and ask
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