Engine build questions
Engine build questions
Ok so i got some questions rebuilding my 94 LT1. At the begining of the year I had a rod bearing start knocking. I got the engine torn down and at the machine shop my stock crank was so ate up it wasn't able to be reused. So I've been looking on summit.com for some crank kits. Been thinking bout using an eagle rotating kit. I'll be doing a 355, the kit comes with hypereutectic aluminum pistons,floating wrist pin style, I-beam connecting rods, forged 5140 steel rods, cast steel crank. According to the overview on summit it says: balanced--Yes
engine balance-- Internal
My question is can my stock flywheel and stock balancer work with this set up?
Thanks for all the help
Chris
engine balance-- Internal
My question is can my stock flywheel and stock balancer work with this set up?
Thanks for all the help
Chris
Re: Engine build questions
The stock balancer is neutral balanced, So yes there. The Flywheel however does have extra weight one one side. I'd call summit and talk to them. If you luck up and get to talk to someone that knows anything they can tell you. I had the same problem with a 383 eagle crank in my car. I ordered a SLP Bilet steel flywheel. They told me that is was neutral balanced, So I bolted it up and the engine had a bad viberation. Took iT out and to a machine shop and the got it to neutral balance. LT1 engines are suppose to be a internally balanced engine, However they do have extra weight on the flywheel/flexplate
Re: Engine build questions
The LT1 is internally balanced front external rear, not hard to understand, not atall unusual.
The rotating assembly the original poster is looking at would be a step backwards from stock you would be further ahead to just buy a junkyard shortblock, something out of say a 94-96 Roadmaster is unlikely to have been abused, will be cheaper and will offer you the opportunity to upgrade to the vented opti system, slap your aluminum heads on it if you wish.
The Eagle cast cranks have had a pretty poor track record in recent years.
The rotating assembly the original poster is looking at would be a step backwards from stock you would be further ahead to just buy a junkyard shortblock, something out of say a 94-96 Roadmaster is unlikely to have been abused, will be cheaper and will offer you the opportunity to upgrade to the vented opti system, slap your aluminum heads on it if you wish.
The Eagle cast cranks have had a pretty poor track record in recent years.
Re: Engine build questions
So could i also take my flywheel to my machine shop with crank and everything just not balancer you think that could work and them get it neutral?
So the eagle crank would not be a wise choice? Which crank would be good? I've heard the same bout scat cranks
So the eagle crank would not be a wise choice? Which crank would be good? I've heard the same bout scat cranks
Last edited by chrisblanton; Jul 26, 2011 at 08:14 PM.
Re: Engine build questions
If I were building a 355 I'd find a stock crank and wouldn't even consider a cast. If you insist on going with an aftermarket crank you might as well build up a 383 if you have the $$$ to support the necessary required valvetrain.
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