OK, go on Ebay and find 2 rotating assemblies.

Both are from the same guy but the one for $1200 has SRP forged pistons and 6.0" rods. His other auction is with Keith Black KB135 pistons and 5.7" rods, $900. Other than this, they are the same?

I will never have a power adder on my car. so which one should I go with? Would you even go with this?

Final question, on a typical rebuild, what else is generally needed other than crank, pistons, rods, rings and associated bearings? I broke my chain so it is a given that an LT4 chain is going in.

Ben

 

Which guy is it? If it's Frank from gofaststuff.com it is fine. He's a good guy to deal with. Ask your engine shop about Keith Black pistons. They have some extra requirements that some shops don't want to deal with.

 

You should go with mine and have a 383 fresh block and brand new rotating assembly for 17

 

is your engine you have a forged assembly?? or just cast?

 

Yes, it's him.

Why the difference in rod lengths?

 

I think the rod lengths are different with the internally balanced and externally balanced kits. Either rod length is going to work for you just fine.

 

10.52 in the 1/4 holy **** lol what did u do to your car lol

 

gofaststuff.com is great, it is where i will be buying my rotating assembly from, along w/ my friend (couple of his friends have already bought stuff from him)

 

I got the gofaststuff with the 6" rods and forged pistons. No problems here, my macine shop did say the balance was close but claimed to get it closer. The longer rods add a reliability factor for the longer stroke. The forged pistons are good insurance too. The rods are already clearanced but you get to have fun clearancing the block, windage tray, and pan.

 

on a typical rebuild, you dont need new rods, crank, and pistons. Generally, you can have the rods checked and reused, the crank checked, turned (if needed) and reused, and depending on the bores, you might need new pistons. Please understand that am not telling you dont need these items or that you shouldnt purchase them. Just simply informing that on a typical rebuild, you dont replace all the internals.

 

cast stuff

 

Yeah, I understood that but if I have to get internal, I might as well make it a 383 that is why I am going new everything.

The question is still out there as to what else is normally needed...

 

Then you also have machine work to the block,which will be $1200-1500.Timimg chain,cam lifters,gaskets,oil pump,the list goes on $ on.And dont forget a good set of heads to feed that 383.Labor to pull the motor and install.When its all said and done your lookin at $6000-9000

 

There is NOT any difference ya can tell between a 5.7 and a 6.0 rod. With a 5.7 and heavy pistons ya may have more trouble balancing it.

A rod is a good way to attach the piston to the crank,the length makes NO difference.

 

At our hp and rpm levels, I agree. The 5.7 rod usually comes externally balanced because the counterweights will hit the skirts if they are made bigger. The 6 inch rod uses a shorter piston so there is room for a longer counterweight and can be balanced internally without the use of Mallory metal.