Ahh I see, that would make sense seeing how my motor is 350 ci and the other in question is 383 ci. I didn't even think about that, duh I saw that they were both called LE3.2 and ***umed they were the same cam

Thanks for explaining

 

Not setting up the springs right is the only way that happens.

 

I'll suggest a couple of ways:

1) Not every spring in a batch is exactly equal. If one was setting a specific valve closed load, you could check every spring at that load and determine the exact length that spring needed, and shim accordingly. That might be 1.750 or 1.765 or 1.780. With a 313 lb/inch rate, .010 height change is 3.13#, .015 is about 5# and .025 is about 7.8#.

2) Not everyone measures things accurately or consistently. This is especially true of installed heights with small retainers. If you don't set springs regularly and just check someone else's work, there is a good possibility of errors in the .010-.015 range. BTDT

I'm not saying either of the above happened, but that's how it might.

Jon

 

You were on race gas (98+ octane) with 20* of timing and were detonating? I think you might want to try a different dyno and tuner. Something is up with that.

Good luck at the track, I hope it runs the numbers you are looking for.

 

Except that rate of most valve springs is far from linear. It's even less linear on a beehive. Within it's operating deflection there is ~120 in/lbs of rate change in a PAC-1518. Our beehive springs are usually +/- 2 pounds from the advertised load at the install height.


And I didn't see you didn't see that you were on race gas. If you were detonating ou definitely have some tuning issues to sort out.

 

Yeah I understand that they won't be exactly the same, but I don't see how they would even come close to having the right pressures if they are setup at 1.8" which is .050" too high.

 

Man thats a flat TQ curve. It's gona be a blast to drive

 

Impressive numbers, and even more impressive tq curve. Should be a beast both on the track and on the street.

 

sweet results man, cant wait to get this motor done.

 

Good numbers on a MUSTANG! I guess Vector Motorsports got the check in the mail to do that then ;-)

Yes, BTW I have done some cams for 1.52:1 rockers.... I change the lobes around to load the pushrod a little less. If your cam says 1.52 on it than that's what you run with it.... Remember these might be a Shelf Cam for Lloyd but I still order ever one of them the way I want it!

Bret

 

Ah hell....it's only 20 thousandths!

 

I learned the timing better today, and its not always less than 20. I drove around watching ignition advance instead of retard for a while. I saw up to 42 degrees while crusing, during mild knock. So, that answers one of my above questions: the WOT tuning did NOT properly tune the cruising timing. So, I guess I only got a WOT tune with 20 degrees max. Which seems to work great, the motors really happy there. I'll probably get Tunercat and tweak the timing myself for cruising.

All things considered, I'll be pretty happy if I get anywhere near 12's at 115 my first time out. That's what I'm nievely hoping for, anyway. Down from previous best of 14.1 at 100ish with 60' about 2.0. I'm usually in the 2.2 range. We'll see.

It really is. I love it. INSTANT throttle response, jumps for me as long as I keep it above 2000. Even spirited driving, I shift at 4000 a lot. I was in heavy traffic for 30 min today, and it was easily manageable. Gently launch at 2k and let is drop to 1500, then push clutch once it does the first 'surge' and coast, while smiling and listening to the lope, pretending not to notice folks looking at me. Tuner backed off the MPH/IDLE speed table, so the revs drop faster. Allows me to coast along without having the idle hang at 1500 like it used to. I'd actually like the idle to drop back to 850 at about 5mph, but now it's more like 1100 there.

Couple more things - I was worried about a knocky sound at idle, and bronze bits in the oil. After further investigation, I found the knocking is gone with the clutch fully in, so I'm thinking transmission. I was relieved to figure that out. And I rinsed the metal bits in solvent - they are silver, the oil color fooled me. Better yet, almost all will stick to a super strong hard-drive magnet, so I think it's just left over cylinder wall from break in. With maybe a little WP gear, haha. I think the motor is fine. I'm hoping for good weather Aug 9 at Milan.

 

42* during cruising is normal. If it's knock retarding, just back off the timing a little (~2*) and it should go away.
If you have a stock style ignition, 20* of timing advance at WOT is NOT normal.

 

Thanks for the input. Is your comment true even for a high compression motor with DCR close to 9 on 93 octane? 20* is apparently what was required to get the WOT knock to go away. Tuner said my tune is like a blower tune, not NA. I attribute the limited advance capability to the 12:5 CR and pretty high DCR, and since power is pretty good, maybe the burn time is fast enough that it works ok? If that's what it takes to get my motor to run right, and it makes good power, do you see any problem with the timing? Maybe we pushed the DCR close to the limit for 93, and this is normal for those circumstances? Quench at .039 with flattops. I polished the chambers, filed the ground electrodes back, and rounded/polished the edges of the plug grounds to minimize hot spots, too.

Anybody else with a similar combo, what is your WOT timing, please?

Bret or 'Jack' - care to comment?

 

My setup is similar to yours. SCR @ 12:1, DCR close to 9 (I believe; I forgot what my valve timing is on my cam ) and quench of .036". I run 93 octane and run a WOT timing advance of 36*. If you didn't care, I'd like to see the timing tables; would you mind sending me the tune? Sweetred95ta@hotmail.com