Those of you that have dual exhaust, especially those that made their own...did you have to relocate anything under the car? I'm especially worried about fuel lines and the Torque Arm. Was there anything that had to be clearanced to make it fit, any grinding anywhere?

Thanks in advance, I'm wanting to go true dual but am a little worried about making it fit without destroying something...

 

No and No.

When i had stock fuel lines in the stock location we did zip tie them together, basically pulling the bottom line up about an inch, but it wasnt necissary. With the lines in the stock location we drove around hard, left the car idling, jacked it up and the lines were still cool.

And nothing has to be done to the T/A if the duals are fabbed right.

Pic

 

Hey kmook how's the your car sound with duals and the cherry bombs inside and out of the car? where did they use hangers at? How much did it run you to have the x pipe fabed? I'm putting duals on mine also and was looking to do what you did. Thanks for the pic.

 

Inside, Loud. Outside, Loud.
Vid with Sound
The only hangers are seen in the pic at the back on the turn downs.
I bought the x-pipe from www.drgas.com it was the universal 3" x-pipe junction for $104.

 

Kmook thanks for the response, this set up will work god for me.
Right now I have stock manifold with stock cats, thats it. What RMP were taking your car to in VID looked like red line. SOUNDS Awesome !!!! nice job

 

Thanks. IIRC it was about 6200.

 

I used 3 inch piping and while my ground clearance does suck if I go a little too fast over speed bumps the pipes do not rub on the car. I heat and beat the torque arm a bit to make sure there would be no contact between it and the pipes - in retrospect I don't think I needed to do this at all. I will say that any torque arm that does not use the stock mounting points probably will not fit - I think some have tried and maybe done it but I sure don't see how. So it looks like the random tech adj. torque arm will be your choice if you ever buy a new tq arm. The trans mount bracket on the drivers side has to be ground down where it's bolted to the car. You'll see what I mean when you get under there. Right where the bolts are there is a little ridge around the edge of the thing for rigidity probably - that has to be ground down. I also heat and beat the pipe there to ensure there would be no contact. I messed with the fuel lines, I dunno why they probably would have been fine in there stock location. I will say bending/straightening those lines is a b!tch even with the little bender tool. I brought them closer together under that ridge just behind the header collector and riveted up a heat shield for what it's worth. Oh, and the tunnel brace deal, I trashed that.. I believe someone ran one pipe through the brace and one pipe out side of it but I dunno.. I remember seeing a pic somewheres. I'd just trash the flimsy thing myself and buy some subframes.

If I had to do it all over again I'd use oval piping. That would surely have helped ground clearance a lot. 2.5 inch piping is probably enough for a stock car BTW.

 

I'm thinking of doing what you did Ken except toward the end I'd spread it out and put mufflers in (thinking Flowmasters for the sound). I've seen at least one pic of a setup like that.

Anyone else done this without any clearance issues?

 

TTT - everyone else had clearance issues??

 

Read my post again.

Yes I have MINIMAL clearance issues. In fact.. IF the exhaust catches on a speed bump then the collector flange on my hookers hits it too. The round 3 inch piping true dual exhaust I made/use does NOT hang any lower than the collector flange on the hooker longtubes If you want to be able to drive 30mph over speed bumps it ain't gonna happen, the longtubes will scape.. and so will some of the rest of the exhaust probably.

I'll say this again, IF you use 3 inch oval piping I'll bet you'd have no clearance problems beyond that of the longtubes... 2.5 inch oval piping and I bet you'd clear FOR SURE!

Now, if you're using jet hot's new longtubes without the flange then the exhaust may hang oh .5 - 1 inch lower than the bottom of the collector but, like I said, I bet you could tuck it up there a little better and use some oval piping I bet the longtubes would still be the lowest point on the car.

 

I relocated my fuel and brake lines higher up in the driveshaft tunnel. Heat shielded and insulated for safety.

 

oval tubing? where do you buy that and can you bend it on a regular pipe bender? just curious , i've never seen it before. thanks

 

Tahts about what I have ...I have the same setup as allmotorta but I have flowmasters......Just had offset in center out on the muffler and works fine.....

 

do you have any sound clips with the flowmasters? I am dying to hear what that sounds like or if I should go with a different muffler...

 

I just installed Jet Hot Hooker LT's and X-pipe.
I have some clearance issues on speed bumps as expected but other than that its ok. I ordered the universal kit from Jegs. it was $168 and threw on 2 Dynomax bullet muffs...another $60...the install was done w/o Cats for $200. i love the sound...highway isnt too bad really, but when u get on it it sounds bad ***...
good luck w/everything