seawolf06

I'm getting this code on the scanmaster and the fans won't turn on at all. I checked the fuse and it was blown. So I put in another fuse (15amp cause it was the only one I had) and started the car to see if that made the fans turn on. It didn't. I took out the AIR relay and replaced each fan relay one at a time with it and they never came on. Finally I went back and looked at the fuse again, and it was blown.(the 15 amp fuse blew when it's only supposed to be a 10amp fuse.)

Any ideas?

Red-LT1

I actually had a very similar problem it bugged the crap out of me! I don't remember the code number but my fans would NOT come on (and I got stuck in traffic and it hit like 260 for a little, probably helped kill my opti that died shortly after)

That 10 amp fuse, if it's the same one I had an issue with, is connected to a few things that could make it blow. I can't tell you what exactly, not knowing which fuse. I think the fan relays and EGR are hooked up to it. But what they failed to tell me (I had to really dig around to figure it out) is that the O2 sensors (if heated) are also powered by it, and my passenger side O2 sensor was shorting out! I killed quite a few 10 ampers figuring that one out! Good luck.

seawolf06

Thanks. I think it's connected to the EGR and the EVAP, but the EGR is deleted and I don't know how to begin to check the EGR.

I'm also getting codes 83 and 84 for the tranny. They're reverse lockout and CAGS codes. (CAGS is deleted as well.)

Red-LT1

Evap thats it! My EGR was/is deleted too.

Jack up your car and check the O2 sensor wires. Mine was shorting on my header lol. especially if you were on a really bumpy road or just have short O2 wires, it's defiantly possible.

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

Click the little transmission codes on the bottom. My brother had a problem with reverse lockout I recall. I forget what was up with it. I'm sure someone else can help you with that though. Probably a wiring issue, or maybe even another fuse (doubt it though).

seawolf06

The tranny codes aren't really causing any problems, yet. I'll check the EVAP tomorrow. Anyone know how?

Also, can anyone confirm that these are the only three things running off this fuse? Thanks

I ran the O2 wires pretty well and they're reading correctly.

Guest47904

The fan fuse supplies all 3 fan relays, EGR solenoid, EVAP solenoid, the O2s, skip shift solenoid and the reverse lockout solenoid.

The 77 code is a fan fault. It is set when the PCM sees the wrong voltage on the dark green wire going to pin 11 of the red PCM connector. It wants to see battery voltage there. Since the fans don't work and you have a 77, check the dark green wire from the PCM to the #1 fan relay. It also passes through C100, a black 10 pin connector right near the PCM. Either ohm it out or pull the red connector at the PCM and see if you have 12 volts when the key is on.

Chances are this wire is broke and touching the frame giving you the fan fault, making the fans not work and blowing the fuse.

seawolf06

Awesome, I'll check that when I get home.

This would explain why I'm also getting codes 83 and 84 for the reverse lockout and skip shift.

Could it be just from stashing the wires under the pcm when I reinstalled it? Could it be pinched somehow?

Guest47904

Let's revise that now that you mentioned the 83 and 84. The dark green wire would cause the 77 but not the other problems. Only the supply line from the fuse to all the devices could do that. So change the point you are looking for to the brown wire going to each device.

Here's something that might help. If you unplug the C100 connector I spoke of before and turn on power and fuse blows, the problem is from the fuse to the relays only. If it does not blow, the problem is from C100 to anyone of the following:
O2(s)
Reverse lockout sol
skip shift sol
EVAP solenoid
EGR

Keep in mind that the problem could be the device or the wire going to it. So unplugging one at a time might show which one is bad or it may not if the problem is the wire leading upto it.

capish?

Red-LT1

Sure. Wires tend to break/expose easier the older they get. And your talking 12-13 years old lol.

seawolf06

Yeah, I just put the motor in and everything was kosher before.

Thanks Speedy for replying. I didn't realize they were all related before.

What should I look for on the brown wire? I have a multimeter. Thanks.

Guest47904

Pull out the fuse and turn the key on. Now measure voltage on the fuse contacts with the meter. One side of the fuse contacts will have 12 volts the other side will not. It is the side without 12 volts you want to focus on. Turn off power and put your meter on low ohms scale. Now put one meter lead on the side without 12 volts (when you measured with power on) and the other meter lead on ground. I use a jumper wire with a push-in connector on one end and the meter lead alligator clipped to the other to gain access to the fuse contacts with the meter leads.

If your meter has a beeper it will be better since you may not be able to see the meter from all the places you have to search. If the meter is reading less than 10 ohms, you have a short to ground more likely than a bad component shorted internally. But, let's eliminate one of the components as being the cause.

Unplug C100 that I mentioned before. See what that does. If it stays low the problem is the relays or the wiring going to them. If it goes high the problem is after C100. Then try disconnecting one component at a time and see or listen to the meter until it goes high again. If that component didn't do it, move to the next one until you have tried all of them.

The last thing you can try is wiggling the brown wire particularly were it goes through a panel or were it goes near any metal surface.

Hope that helps

seawolf06

On my meter, it reads about 3 on the beeper setting with C100 plugged in, but when I unplugged C100 it stopped. So that means it's after C100. The only component I could get to without jacking up the car since I don't have one here was the EVAP. When I did, the multimeter still beeped, but it read above 10. When I switched to the "200 ohm" setting, it read about 8 again. If that means it's not that, then I'll get to the rest of them tonight or tomorrow.

I have the craftsman digital multimeter, if that makes any difference. The battery died on me so it needs a new one. If all "beeper settings" are the same, when does it stop beeping?

seawolf06

Ok, figured it out. The DS O2 must have been grounding somewhere. I unplugged it and the meter stopped beeping. Plugged it back in after moving it around a bit and it was fine. Test drive showed that the fans came on and at the right temps.

Now I'm getting a dtc 33 for the MAP sensor. It never ends...

Could the low vacuum be because of the big cam?

Guest47904

One easy way to tell. Apply close to 20in. Hg vacuum to the MAP and see if the PCM shows a higher vacuum level and if the fault goes away.

It would also be nice to know what the actual vacuum level you have.

seawolf06

How would I apply vacuum?

The BAR was reading around 30 and the MAP was reading around 20 at idle. I'll have to double check again.