LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

dropped my car off to the dealership

Old Feb 17, 2004 | 06:42 PM
  #1  
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dropped my car off to the dealership

okay fellas, I dropped my car off to satan(dealership) and hopefully they can figure it out. hesitation problems/low rpm on the highway...oil pressure jumping around...and vibration! I dropped it off this morning 7am and theyre not done until now...they say maybe tommorow afternoon...such along time!

Also early this morning (cold) I turned my key to "on" position and I heared one click noise in the engine,, then I did repeated the process, and sometimes it wont click and sometimes it will...but it starts fine! early in the morning though, the very first start ...the rpm will jump up and stay at 500 for like half a second and proceed to 1K like a cold engine supposed to,, and its normal after than...well before the car warms up and go into crap! low rpm hesitation and vibration!

some guy told me that its my optispark since its not doing it when car is cold! (open and close loop thing)!

but my question is, I drove my car back from chicago city to central IL (120 MILES) straight,, and my car did not have any problem.

I notice my problem only on short (traffic, stop and go) kinds of trips!

WHAT IS THE DEAL!
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 07:34 PM
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Can someone explains to me what goes on when you turn your key to "on" position. not starting the car. thanks

wondering why there is a click noise in the engine.
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 07:48 PM
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Nothing happens in the engine, for sure :-/. Fuel pump primes, all powered things turn on. The coil energizes. The click sounds like the starter clicking... maybe you have a bad battery? That will cause a low RPM stumble/hesitation at startup because you'll have a weak spark until the alternator juices the battery up.
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 08:02 PM
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if the starter is clicking, is that going bad...
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 08:03 PM
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A lot of time it's just because the battery's low. But yes, if it's a good battery, clicking is definetly a bad thing.
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 08:54 PM
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how much would it cost to replace the starter..part and labor?
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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Labor, Im not sure. It's held in by two bolts, would take you 10 minutes to do yourself. A new starter wouldnt be more then 150 tops
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 09:30 PM
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I usually hear some relays clicking when I turn the key to ON.
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 09:36 PM
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where is the relays or the starter located at... I hear it almost where the optispark is located,, coulld it be the opti doing this as well.
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 09:40 PM
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Originally posted by Spinner
[B]Labor, Im not sure. It's held in by two bolts, would take you 10 minutes to do yourself.
10 minutes as long as he's got headers. My starter went out before i had headers and it took me awhile to change b/c i had to drop the y-pipe...which was a bitch to get off, but it came off easy when i installed the headers .
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 10:26 PM
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the starters prolly fine. you said the "on" position. the starter is not energized in the "on" position. only in the crank. with a good batt. and getting a clicking while in the "crank" position, then starter would be bad.

you are almost for sure just hearing the relays coming on. dont worry about it. its normal.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 05:38 AM
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Clicking in the "crank" position is rarely the starter but rather a bad connection or battery is low. A clicking relay is usually a bad connection. The bad connections in the engine bay are very often the ones that are ignored. The ground for the frame and the ground for the engine.

If you're having work done by a stealership OUT OF WARRANTY, do a couple of things WHEN YOU DROP THE CAR OFF. First and foremost, let them know that you will not pay for anything unless you receive the old parts back. This does not include things like gaskets and hoses etc...... Second, you will not pay for a repair that is not authorized by you first. Be sure these 2 things are written on the repair order that you have to sign.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 07:17 AM
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you better call the dealership and let them know you want authorization before they replace anything...otherwise your going to get back there, realize they replaced everything except the block in the car trying to make it work because they didn't actually troubleshoot it, and they will charge you $3000. This seems to be a trend with GM dealerships...
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:21 AM
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Well the dealership told me that there is no sign of water pump leak and they couldnt find anything since my car is OBD1 and no codes! they ask me if I want to do a fuel pressure test...and I say yes.

they told me that the car is definetely missing bad! what the hell is going on?
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:23 AM
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I have a 1994 A4,,,I thought I got an OBDII....?

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