I think I will buy this short block from this guy locally if you guys think its a good deal.
its a 96 lt1 block
bored .30 over
forged flat top pistons
summit stage I rods
stock crank
balanced and blueprinted
had new main and cam bearings when built

I was told it had about 20-25 nitrous spraying passes on it and about 5000-6000 daily driven miles in a blazer. He said it has around 11:1 compression. It also includes a new water pump. The price is $500 with the wp and a wiring harness that has been cut in half...only good for electrical connections.

 

carefully inspect this motor. anything run with nitrous should be inspected carefully. if the shots were low, it should be okay if built right. stay away from it if it's had 20-25 150hp shots, or at least have a professional inspect it. I believe the summit stage 1 rods are only rated to around 400 hp or so, which is much less than the stockers. not sure why he would have done that, because the stock rods are powerdered metal forged, which are roughly rated around 500hp. you must be careful when buying used. if it's in the blazer still, then thats your best bet. you can drive it and see for yourself.

 

They were 300 shots But I was planning on re-ringing the motor and putting either my stock rods in it with ARP rod bolts or putting ARP bolts in the summit rods. I was also planning on putting some arp main cap studs on it. What rings should I go with if I want to spray around a 175-200 shot. The summit rods are rated to 525HP says summit and 10.5 to 1 compression.

 

i really have no idea how that motor lasted on 300 shots with a cast crank and cheaper forged rods. i believe the sumit stage 2's are the 525hp stuff, but i could be wrong. I'd call the piston manufacture and ask them for a good ring. you'll probably want to spray a 150 unless your comfortable with your balance and parts. the stock crank is rated to about 500-550hp. we all know it'll take more than that, but who knows for know long. those are good factory cranks though.

 

just me, but i'd never buy a motor that was sprayed with a 300 if it wasn't on the right parts...

 

Well I might just put my crank and LT1 rods in it from my current motor. It still will work out cheaper for me because I will not have to pay for new forged pistons things like boring it 30 over, torque honing, and zero decking.....right?

 

you dont want stock rods trust me, i snapped 2 rods w/ mods in sig... no nitrous. 72k miles and bam.

 

I would not want anything to do with that motor, crappy parts, and it has been heavily abused.

 

damn 96lt1....you had some bad luck. those are very good factory rods.

 

I broke two rods at 128k lol

 

PM rods are on paper stronger, but they do not like cylinder pressure spikes, or too much ignition advance, they are much more likely to break than a std forging under those conditions, being that they are brittle rather than bendable.

 

not bad luck, just mean cam and 72,000 miles.

 

Probably a wise idea to find out exactly what that "around" compression figure equates to. Does that mean it'll be 11:1 with your heads and head gaskets? Has the block been decked? All good information to know before you buy.