If your still running the original opti you might consider an LTCC conversion. From what I've read here the optical sensor is pretty reliable but the cap and rotor are on borrowed time for sure. The LTCC only uses the optical sensor in the opti and relocates the high voltage current to a coil over plug set-up like an LS1 ignition.
Thats just an idea on reliability, many people have really good luck with them but just do a search, you'll read many (endless) post which curse the opti.

 

a nice set of headers will help gas mileage...

 

Use ford's tranny fluid
dont get a 160 stat
Biggest trans cooler you can find.


with 2.73s, your motor was barely working!

your trans will take a dump way before the motor assuming nothing catastrophic.

 

I agree with trey, a 180 stat would be better for your climate as the the thermostat will spend less time closed and more time delivering cool water to the engine.

I had good experience with Honda's ATF as have many other board members. It's called ATF-Z1 and you get it from the Honda dealership.

 

I'm curious why you would not use a 160* thermostat. I always assumed (maybe incorrectly) that cooler engines run better and more reliably. I thought that the only reasons they put higher thermostats in modern cars were for emissions and better heater performance in cold climates. Here in South Florida it never gets cold and there aren't any emissions inspections. I would imagine that even with a 160* thermostat and programming, I'll still see coolant temp typically 180*+ so maybe it wouldn't make sense to do...

Why do you think I shouldn't get a 160* thermostat?

 

Why shouldnt he get a 160 stat? I thought that for hotter climates a cooler thermostat would be great. How would the 180 be a better choice?

I think thats the good thing about 2.73's the rpms are always so low, its like your engine is idleing while driving down the road.



When i change out my gears, i shouldnt get synthetic?

 

Hey I have my car set up like that with the 160 stat and 180 fans and it's working real good. I live near you too.

 

Does anyone have an explanation as to why I should a 180* thermostat rather than a 160* thermostat? I would think cooler is better... There may be a limit to that theory, but I don't think I'll find that limit here in South Florida...
Thanks,
Steve

 

im using a 160 stat with no difference in mpg. Cooler is better

 

Welcome to the board.The question about 160 or 180 stats has been debated here for years.Sounds like you have got a sweet ride.You parent took very good care of this car,and I guess you will want to do the same.Chances are that if the outside temps are high, you will most likely have the air on,so the fans will be running anyway.I would continue with the preventative maintence that was handed down to you,and maybe add a cold air intake,and maybe a high flow cat,(going to have to go there anyway),and just change your oil more frequently,as the K&N gets the oil dirtier(spelling check),faster.I have my trans oil changed once a year anyway,so I maybe on borrowed time,Idunno.Hope this helps.

 

I guess I should do a search for previous threads on the benefits of 180* v 160* thermostats...
If anyone has a link to a previous discussion thread, it would be helpful.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Steve

 

In responce to your question about the pullies, I have the ASP "ASP847601" set that has a 34% underdrive main and 15% underdrive Alt. pully. The Alt gives full charge above 1050 RPM and since I have a manual my RPM only drops down to 900 at a complete stop and the Alt still gives a full charge untill the car is hot. I've never had problems with charging even after multiple long stop lights with AC and Fans and Stereo (400 watts) cranked. You have an automatic and I believe the RPMS are lower at a stop so I would avoid the Alt reduction but you should be fine without going to a Alt overdrive to compensate for the main underdrive. I recomend the "ASP847600" one for your application.

Check this site, pick your favorite and order through Summit (I got mine for ~$69)
http://www.autospecialties.com/frame.htm

 

I don't think we're talking about the same thing.

What is a K&N PreCharger?
The K&N PreCharger is a specially designed filter wrap made to extend the service interval of your K&N Filtercharger when used in very dusty conditions. They are made from durable polyester material containing a uniform weave. The PreCharger will stop small dirt particles with minimal restriction to the airflow of the filter. The PreCharger is designed to be run dry and can be cleaned with K&N Filter Cleaner. The PreCharger is custom made to fit each application. Double stitched elastic openings assure that the PreCharger will stay in place. The PreChargers are available in a variety of colors, all with a silk-screened K&N PreCharger logo.

That was pulled directly from here. http://www.knfilters.com/wraps.htm

This is what I was talking about. Reason I hate oiling filters is because I've seen the oil drip in the intake one too many times......that could be human error but I still don't like it. So I figured the above could be a good choice for someone like me.

 

Want to improve reliability, install a 12bolt or a 9inch rear end.

Toss in some subframes too, if no one mentioned them. They'll reduce body flex and should help keep your car from developing any nasty curves that shouldn't be there.

 

Don't you lose gas mileage switching to a 12 bolt or a Ford rear end?