these heads are not complete. i have only done the intake ports and bowls. i have not done the final touches on the intake ports because i will have to get some welding done. i went into the push rod area, and a couple of the rocker studs.

so here are some pics if anyone cares to see them. any advice or critizism is welcome. this is the first port and polish job and man it was more time consuming than i thought it would be.

if anyone has any tips as i get ready to do the exhaut ports, this is where i start worrying because i dont want to go into the water jackets. so any advice in this area is apperciated.

note: they look alot better in person. the camera i had sucks and i did some more cleaning up in the bowls and around the valve guides after i took the pics.

its alot of trouble but i can at least say i did it, and if they arent worth a crap when im done, i can at least say i tried it. \

i will have these flowed after im done. and i will post back with the results.

also notice nnumbers 16 and 18 are pics of the factory flaws and ridges and other things to obstruct flow, just some things i noticed as i started to port these heads.

and skardom... if you read this, you wre right raise them before you widen them. im glad i took your advice, because you can raise them quite a bit. and lower them alittle. thanks for all the advice skardom. you got any for me on the exhaust side. cause i can use it.

 

I'm no pro but here are some of my thoughts.

It looks like you've removed some material from the port floors. This will not help with total airflow and can promote reversion. In the future I would not remove much material from the port floors. On the LT1 heads the short side radius is also very effective. I just take a quick swiple with a cartridge roll to smooth any imperfections and the cast finish.

In the bowls I would concentrate more on the side opposite the exhaust side valve... the far side of the cylinder. Airflow tends to flow across the back of the valve from this side. It looks like you still have plenty of material to work with there.

The guides still protrude into the bowl, you can still cut these down a bit more and smooth the radius around them.

For the exhaust ports, they are a much tighter fit but a steady, smooth hand can do wonders. The same advice goes for the exhaust, do not modify the port floors much. Even if you wanted to the coolant jacket is just below the exhaust port floor and you will cut into it without removing too much material. Concentrate on the roof and cutting down all that guide and surround material. I also concentrated more on the outer wall than the one adjoining the intake side.

It's hard to tell from the pics but you really need to blend and smooth what you have. Transistions are the key, but it looks like you have a good foundation. Don't forget to place some valves in and polish the combustion chambers, also get exhaust ports a smooth finish.

Not sure if that helps you any If I'm smoking crack hopefully someone will correct my methods

 

Again, it's hard to discern the detail from pictures but it looks like the port roofs have some curvature to them. Most of the intake charge will flow along the roof so you want to maximize this area. I focused on getting mine almost flat across the top. The roof had a bit of a slope to it (with the high side being towards the pushrod) but was flat with small radiuses at the corners.

Hope this helps!

 

thanks i appreciate it. i didnt take much off the floor, but i took alot off the roof and flatened it out, like you mentioned. so your saying take some more out on the side oppisite the exhaust. and just smooth out the exhaust floor and raise the roof alittle.

what are yall using to get all the stuff out of the combustion chamber and polish it clean. i do have the deluxe standard abasive kit. im mean do you spray somthing in the chamber as you polish it. i know thats a stupid question but i have to ask or i will never know.

after i get the welding i need done, i will go back and clean everything up.

i dont expect very good flow #s because this is my first try at this. but when i pull the heads off my car i will probably do them as well. i will tell you what, i have learned alot from just sitting in my garage working on these heads. and all the info i get from you guys is great. thanks.

i wish i had a better camera.

 

hey buttercup did you get yours flowed when you finished them. if so could you post flow #s.

 

also is there any way to tell if a set of heads has been milled before without measuring the head. is there a mark or something that you can look at. because i bought these heads from someone else and i want to have .030 taken off. but if they have allready had .020 taken byt he previous owner that would be .050 and i dont want pistion to valve contact.

 

ttt for the evening crowd

 

i dunno if they are good or not, but bump for the effort!

 

well ijust got done with some more of the intake ports (another 6 hours worth). buttercup you were right about the intake bowl oppisite of the exhaust port. there was ALOT of material there. and i took it all out (well not all). that will help a whole lot. THANKS

i wil post more pics tommorow evening.

anymore advice

 

Hey man, how did the heads worked out for you? Did you have them flowed? If so, could you please post some numbers.
Thanks