Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
Now eliminate the wires as being a problem.
If it were me, I'd put a different wire and plug on the suspect contact of the opti and check it for spark again. Pull off the one that's there and plug a good one in and check it again.
If after checking all the bad locations for spark with another plug and wire you find they are still not sparking correctly, set #1 at TDC. Then take the cap off and see if it's point just left of the 6 O'clock position. Obviously look at the condition of the contacts on the cap and rotor.
Then rotate the engine back and forth by hand to see how much movement you have at the crank before the rotor starts to move.
If it were me, I'd put a different wire and plug on the suspect contact of the opti and check it for spark again. Pull off the one that's there and plug a good one in and check it again.
If after checking all the bad locations for spark with another plug and wire you find they are still not sparking correctly, set #1 at TDC. Then take the cap off and see if it's point just left of the 6 O'clock position. Obviously look at the condition of the contacts on the cap and rotor.
Then rotate the engine back and forth by hand to see how much movement you have at the crank before the rotor starts to move.
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
Decided to pull opti. Taking back the cheap rtp to oriellys and trading for AC Delco. O'riellys first qouted $541 bucks for the opti. After neogations they are going to match the price from Jegs, $399.00. That worked out well. Installing tomorrow, will update. Thanks for all the advice, I'll let you know if it fixes the problem.
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
Replaced the cheap opti with ac delco, replaced o2 sensors, replaced fuel filter, replaced spark plug wires, plugs are new and readjusted the valves. Before reading the following keep in mind the car would only back fire at the intake when trying to start but wouldn't start. After all of the repairs the engine fired right up sounded great, bleed the coolant system, (took about five minutes or so) and let the car idle for another five minutes or so. No problems, sounded great. Decided to take a test drive, sat down in driver seat and car died, no sputter or miss, just died. Tried to restart, and it wouldn't even try to fire off, no back fire like before but nothing. I'm stumped, I checked the ignition fuse, pulled the fuel rails and cranked it over and wated the injectors spray, all is well. Fixing to make sure I still have fire at the plugs but other than that I'm stuck. Please help, son's car and he has to go to work.
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
When it dies, you need to know fuel pressure (with a gauge) and whether there is spark and if there are any trouble codes (regardless of check engine light being on or not).
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
we checked the fuel pressure the other day when it wouldn't start and it was fine. The other day the spark was erratic and not firing consistent, and it seems the new dist fixed that problem. New coil, what else would keep it from firing, not thinking it's a fuel problem cause we cheked injector spray.
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
I waited 30 minutes or so then went back out and double checked everything. Didn't change a thing, tried to start, and it fired right up, purred like a kitten for about 15 seconds and then died. Tried to restart, not even trying to start. Checked fuel pressure, 47 psi while pump is running 41 psi after it shuts off. Holding pressure. What the heck, electronics suck. What could it be, please help. Thanks.
Last edited by camz28ryan; Feb 24, 2012 at 12:14 AM.
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
Sorry shoebox , yes it cranks over. And yes it has fire otherwise it wouldnt have started. And no codes. I'm guessing we forgot to plug something in or something. Can you think of anything that would allow the car to start then die and after it cools it starts again?
Re: Diagnosing Dead Cylinders
You earlier showed that fuel pressure seemed to be ok. Now, this time when it would not start up, did you check for spark? You're going to have to do that every time it won't start to help narrow it down. If you don't see spark, do the tests at the ICM connector again. If all that looks ok and you still don't have spark, the ICM might be suspect. Another thing to make sure of is that you are getting a good connection of the harness terminals to the ICM-clean and tight. Sometimes the little spade tips can get sprung and lose their tension. And, you never see the security light stay on, right?


