96Z28man

I can't get the damn thing back on the oil pan seal!!! There is a lip but it won't stay/get on?? What should I do?????

BOWTYDE

You have to put the bottom on first, I worked one corner in and then pushed the rest in. Make sure you seal it to the pan, I had a leak.

jmzlt1

It's a good idea to rtv the oil pan gasket and lip of the timing cover to prevent leaks. I did and I have no leaks

shoebox

You realize that the timing cover is supposed to be on before the oil pan goes on. So if the oil pan is on or not loosened, you cannot expect the timing cover to go on without some difficulty.

vodoo-chile

Listen to this guy. He is the techie guru with many pics. lol

Kyle

Janny

If you want to save yourself a LOT of grief, loosen off the oil pan bolts right back to the last two. This will allow you to lower the pan about 1 or 2 inch at the front and then you will find that it is NO problem gettng the Timing Cover on. It is also a LOT less likely that it will leak, because you will be able to clean thoroughly all the surfaces that need cleaning and you will be able to apply generous amounts of RTV sealant.

For the life of me, I don't know why someone would try to install the TCwithout doing this, since it is really not difficult at all lowering the pan.

nateh

I feel your pain. Really. I just got done putting mine on about an hour ago. I'm not positive it is leak-free but I'm hopin'. I loosened the first couple of oil pan bolts on each side, just like the Haynes manual says. It doesn't help. If I were to do it again, I'd probably loosen them all and try it that way. I wish I'd seen this message a few hours ago.

AlexA

As said - drop the front of the pan about 1". You have to lossen almost all the bolts. It can be painful if you have an A4 and oil cooler because lines run along the side of the oil pan.

This is the only way to do it right. I know because I've wrestled with a few sets for a long time trying to get it on and this included cars with electric H2O pumps! Sigh...

Be sure to be a layer of RTV down where the oil pan meets the timing cover. I've never had a leak that way.

-Alex

96Z28man

I got it on, but I'll tell you you guys make it sound easy on just take off the oil pan bolts. Man, the first 2 are ok, then after that it's hard as hell, especially with big arms and hands!!! Anywho, finally got it. What a pain in the ***. 17 hours of work so far and I'm almost done with the valve springs/rockers/pushrods, then for the final assembly and the damn cpu harnessing, another thing that will royally suck!!!!

bad96firechikin

This is completely irrelevant, but Shoebox, I just checked out ur Camaro - Looks BADASS!

Janny

If you use a little 1/4 inch ratchet with extensions, it is no problem getting at the pan bolts. I have headrs and A4, and I don't think it took more than an hour to undo and redo them.

If you have done it any other way, I honestly would still recommend taking things apart, cleaning them properly and then getting a GOOD layer of RTV in all the critical corners, especially that one where the 3 components meet (block, TC and oil pan). This way you can be almost certain things will be proerly sealed. Otherwise, you will very likely be going back in later, and you will have a LOT more work to do, and you will be in a much nastier frame of mind when you do it.

Another benefit to doing the job this way, is that you don't rip any of the seals as you install the TC. Lube them up a bit and they slide right into place.

Good Luck. Take your time, and do it right the first time, and you will be a happy camper.

slashz28

i actually went through the trouble of loosening all save for the last 2-3 bolts on the oil pan, and it didnt drop at all but, i had no problems reinstalling the timing cover. everything went fine. i cant say that its "ok" just yet, cause i havent started the car to know. but it seemed fine. m6 btw. ill know for sure next week. reinstall it from the bottom first, like the others said. good luck