Why? The edge of the freeze plug blocks the passageway to the hole. No need to add anything to be leak free.....

 

I also had issues with CSR bullsht customer service and I hope I don't have to deal with them again.
I sent a bad pump in for repair, they jerry-rigged it and sent it back. The impeller scraped loudly against the housing and immediately sent aluminum filings across my workbench upon testing it. They didnt even test the pump before sending it back.

So they said they would arrange to have it picked up. Instead of waiting around for a pickup, I asked if I could just ship it out and be refunded the shipping cost. The lady said this was fine, then later refused to refund the shipping cost. Btch flat out lied to me and swindled me out of the shipping costs, and has stopped responding to my emails. Who the hell does that? Total downtime was around a month, thats rediculous. I wish I would have gone with Meziere.

 

Is it worth the extra $50 for the meziere HD model or is that overkill?

 

It's possibly overkill as my car never ran hot with the CSI pump @ 37gpm. However, the HD meziere pump has approximately the same flow rate as the stock mechanical water pump and that was the reason that many people shied away from electric setups......

 

It may be overkill....but I didn't want issues....I know there is only a couple of gallons of coolant .......When its timeI'll replace this MEZ HD with another one

Mike

 

Where did you hear that? The factory pump is engine driven and is usually spinning at like 2500rpm; the electric pump is always spinning at full speed.

 

I'll have to look it up again but as I recall, the maximum flow rate for the stock engine driven pump is something like 55GPM, where the CSI pump was 37 GPM , the Mez 118 unit something like 45 and the HD something like 55GPM. Yes, the engine driven pump isn't usually at the rated output and the electric ones always are...which is one reason I use one, the other being that I like the hp loss recovery.

One of the biggest reasons stated for those opposing the use of electric pumps is the flow rate at maximum.....

By the way, the engine driven pump usually runs much lower rpm than 2500...it spins at cam speed (1/2 engine speed)

 

The water pump drive gear is half the size of the cam gear, so it spins at crankshaft rpm.

An electric pump should provide several times more flow at idle when the car isnt moving and is most prone to overheating.

 

Ah, I forgot about the wp drive gear...you're right about that.

You're also right about higher flow at idle with an electric pump. We aren't argueing at all.....I'm just stating what those that oppose the use of an electric water pump have been saying for years....

 

Definatly interesting about the 2 rear cylinders running hotter with less flow. I'm probably going to look for a good used meziere HD when I can afford it. Thanks all.

 

I did not bother to read the whole thread.

For a daily driver MECHANICAL, leave the electrics to the guys looking for that last .1 on the dragstrip.

The electrics free up power by moving LESS water.

 

Dyno Results of Electric Water Pump
http://www.ws6.com/mod-14.htm

Electric frees up power by not being driven off the Cam Shaft not because it moves less water which in fact it doesnt move less water.

 

I'm not going to do the research but I recall that the electric WPs flow more at low RPMs but less than stock pumps at the higher RPMs. Obviously the elec. flows at a fixed rate and the stock is variable with RPM. That may have changed once the high flow pumps came out. Again, I'm not 100 percent sure but that's what I remember.

Larry

 

I went out and checked this, it looks like its a 1:2.5 ratio, so the water pump spins 2.5 times faster than the cam, or 25% faster than the crank.

 

couldn't find a spare water drive laying around, but if you have the time to count teeth:

I "think" I got them all:
39 teeth on the Water Pump drive unit
99 teeth on the cam drive sprocket
------------------------------------
2.538:1 ratio between water pump and cam. (99/39)
2:1 ratio between cam and crank (any 4-stroke)
-------------------------------------------------
1.269:1 ratio between LTx water pumps and crank.

11 GPM @ 1,000 pump RPM (787 crank RPM)
20 GPM @ 2,000 pump RPM (1576 crank RPM)
31 GPM @ 3,000 pump RPM (2364 crank RPM)
40 GPM @ 4,000 pump RPM (3151 crank RPM)
51 GPM @ 5,000 pump RPM (3940 crank RPM)
64 GPM @ 6,000 pump RPM (4727 crank RPM)

which is right on par with what the road racer's are seeing... GPM starts to drop due to cavitation above 6000 rpms... or 7615 pump RPMs.

One solution I guess could be a new cam sprocket and water pump gear that reduce the ratio closer to 1:1 ratio between crank and pump RPMs... but then you risk really low flow rates at idle (and good luck getting anyone to invest in tooling for such a LT1-specific piece)

e-pump is fine for everything but sustained (several minutes) high-rpm racing... a second inline e-pump and thermostat delete would be in order at that point. But really, this is in extreme examples only.