Hello All,

Im In the process of bolting back down my cylinder heads and im a little confused on the specs. Would I have to torque the heads in sequence then follow back up with a certain degree to get them tightened correctly? Or is there a torque spec that I can use to bolt them down taking the degrees into account. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks

 

Depends on the type of head bolts you are using. If you got single use torque-to-yield bolts, then you would need to torque to a spec, then turn X # of degrees, but if you bought aftermarket reusable bolts, then it is usually just a trorque spec. with lube.

 

http://shbox.com/ci/head_assy.jpg

 

Im currently using the stock bolts, not sure what the yield is on those guys. Im sure my book has it listed somewhere.

Shoebox,

I see what your diagram is saying. referencing this link below on the other hand says 3 passes to reach a specific torque spec. But If degreeing the bolts is the correct way to do things after about 22lb then I need to find that tool to do so I imagine.

1994 LT1 Torque Specs

Thanks

 

Are you RE-using the stock bolts? If so I would stop right there and go with a new bolt, something like ARP 134-3601. Torque them in three passes - 25#, 45#, 70#.

 

If your are reusing your 97s stock bolts-don't. They are TTY and can only be used once. Follow Joe's suggestion with the ARP bolts.

 

Thanks for the heads up guys, I went ahead and order the arp bolt kit. I originally wanted to go with the arp head stud kit, but did not want to spend that much.

These ones should do nicely with my build.

Thanks,

Tom

 

Is this a new build? Was the block honed with torque plates?

 

Yes, this is a new build. Are you referring to torque plating to ensure the bores are not out of round when the heads are bolted down? The machine shop that I had do the work did use this method when they bored it over .030.

 

Usually when you have that done, they want to use your bolts or studs.

 

Thats a good point, especially if they used the stock torque spec and im using the arp bolts now. hopefully I dont run into issues due to this.

 

I used the LT1 ARPs and did it in roughly the same way.

22#, 45#, 65#

I used a liberal amount of Permatex High temp sealant on the bolts as well. No leaks and no issues for 2 years. All thread holes were cleaned with a chaser tap and completely dry(no oil or coolant on them). Head gaskets used were Fel-Pro 1074.