Once in awhile, my car cuts out at WOT. When it does it, I floor it, it cuts out for a half second, then like kicks back in and runs excellent. It does it only once and awhile. I threw a MAF code before, and I put a new MAF sensor on. Its not throwing a code, and its done it once since i put my new maf on, and that was yesterday. I got a new opti too.

any suggestions?

Rob

 

Maybe its just down shifting when you floor it. It takes about half a second then when its in a lower gear the car will accelerate much quicker.

 

I can have it at WOT for a little while, then it cuts off as if someone turn off the motor, then a half second later, it comes back to life. Happens once and awhile. Sometimes it starts stumbling around when im going WOT, and black smoke shoots out the back. But once i get to high RPM's, it clears out. Its hard to explain, lol. So I have 2 different symptoms.

Rob

 

thats a opti problem... black smoke and maf code.. not good time for a new opti...

LT1 owners have dealt with the Opti-Spark distributor for 11 years now, but there is still much confusion regarding the causes and symptoms of a failing unit. Tapping into the PCM with a scan tool is a good way to start, but sometimes no codes will be set. Before diving into the Opti-Spark, be sure to verify that your grounds are good and the coil and wires are not the source of the problem, as they are much easier to change.

Symptoms:

* Car suddenly dies and won't restart
* Starts but immediately dies
* Extended cranking to start
* Rough idle
* Sputtering
* Backfiring
* Trouble reaching higher rpm
* Black smoke from exhaust
* Poor performance with car warmed up
* Weak plug wire spark
* Codes 16, 36, and 42 may be set

 

I just put a new GM opti on.

Oh no!


Rob

 

did you get it wet??? while putting everythign on .. or check your water pump to make sure it's not leaking...

 

My friend's T/A does the EXACT same thing, and he also just had a new Opti installed. He also has DTC 36. Any chance it's a problem with the harness? I drove his car and it's DAMN annoying. I even have a datamaster log of it if anyone would like to see. It literally is like the ignition gets switched off for half a second, then when the power comes back in, the Check Engine light is on and DTC 36 is set.

EDIT: Here is a screenshot of the power drop.

http://kmoore.phzero.net:8081/pictur...o/TA_dtc36.gif

Notice that speed drops to zero when power cuts out. The O2 output also drops to near-zero, indicating atmospheric O2 content in the exhaust (again, as if the ignition totally shut down). His car is an A4, btw...

 

mine does that too...around 4500RPM it sorta dies but then it grabs life again around 5k

 

If you were to unplug the MAF at those RPMs I would imagine it would do exactly what you are describing. I had a bad connection at my MAF and it would cut in/out. The switch from MAF mode to SD mode would create a very noticeable misfire like condition.. sometimes bad enough my car would stall in the street. My money is going on a bad MAF or bad wiring.

btw your link doesnt work.

 

My link does work, but your ISP probably doesn't like the funky port. At you at work by any chance? I've found corporate environments restrict access like that.

If this forum would support inline pictures, I'd just post it....

 

email me the entire datamaster log if you want.. ill see if anything jumps out at me.

 

Has anyone come up with a solution for this?

 

im wondering too. No performance mods until everythings fixed...

 

Update..

I hit some railroad tracks kinda hard (didnt mean too) and my service engine light came on, and started doing its "cut out" thing giving it throttle. It eventually cleared out to normal again.. Something loose?


errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr....

Rob

 

I checked my coil plug today and it was kinda loose. That didnt fix my issue....what about replacing the coil or going with a msd ignition?