This sounds familiar...

He's right on the price too...

 

 

I would go with an STS turbo system, or something similar. The turbo keeps the exhaust quite because of where it's located, and you can adjust the boost level with an electric boost controler. That, and you have the single exhaust tip like the V6's.

 

I did get the email, thanks!

I'll probably throw around the idea of a nitrous'd 383 and a turbo'd or blown 355... We'll see.

 

I would reccommend that you:

A: Remove all badges from the back and the doors

B: Go to a single exit exhaust to appear to be a V6. I think you could still have good flow with a 3" pipe. Some of the ls1 SS Camaros had a single exit stock system.

I always thought that the lobe seperation angle of a cam had the biggest impact on the lope aside from the ammount of lift. Stay at or above a 114* LSA and it wont lope much. Go with a forged rotating assembly and make that sucker a 355 nitrous machine.

 

Overlap is what makes the cam lope or not.... LSA changes overlap but so does duration.

The 3" single 98 SS exhaust was the lightest and best flowing, and made the most power to boot. If you tucked it up under the bumper it would help the sleeper look.

Bret

 

It's the overlap that gives ya the lope. Ya could have all kinds of LSA but it's the ramp speed that controls over lap and a wide LSA. If ya go with a 114 and a slow closing ramp ya got lope.
Just because ya got a 114 doesn't mean it won't lope. Pro Stock cams(older ones) are 120/122 LSA+12

 

You don't need a sleeper... you need photoshop..

 

keep the stock exhaust if you're getting an electric cut-out.

 

IMO a sleeper is definitely the way to go for a street-pounder. If for nothing else they're 100% business, like a muscle car should be. I absolutley love going to shows or meets and parking right in the middle of all the perfectly detailed garage queens. I take pride in every scratch and rock chip, the heavy brake dust, exhaust stains on the bumper, worn and abused tires, and especialy the layer of once molten rubber on the fenders. It just says "I'm driven, and driven damn hard". To my eyes its better looking than the spotless, more miles on a trailer than on the road, show cars.

 

Reading through this thread helps to get that focus on what a "sleeper"
really should be. It definately needs to sound stock, as in no lope and a
quiet exhaust. It can't have a turbo or a blower, and if it has N2O then
it needs to be completely hidden. It also helps to have cast iron exhaust
manifolds. Most people see the logs on there and then write you off as
easy/slow. This leaves room for lots of internal work, suspension work,
and other trick things that usually go unnoticed, like a 383 with great
heads matched to the perfect baby cam with a bullet proof valvetrain.
You match this with a suspension that puts the power to the ground
and a semi-beater ride and you will suprise the hell out of just about
anyone.

 

Thats what i think you just need to extrude hone out the logs, maybe at best to get them coated Completely hide the nitrous and build it internally to hand a huge shot. Then you would be mint!

 

An STS turbo system mounts the turbo under the rear bumper, keeping it hidden from sight unless you look under the car. And in the engine bay, you only see a "cold air intake" pipe going down by the exhaust manifolds.

http://www.ststurbo.com/camaro_install_pics

 

Even though its quieter you can still tell its a turbo and it doesnt look stock i.e. Sleeper when you dont have the proper exhuast tips, even the SS type eshaust had 2 exhaust pipes that went too one side.

For all outward apperances it must look stock. If you can rig it to look stock thats fine. But still you can tell a turbo or blower by the noise it makes. Nitrous when it hits, it hits, it just sounds like a motor winding up.

 

Well I'm thinking if I stick with the stock catback with an electric cutout on there, and once I upgrade to midlengths/LTs, get 3" pipe welded in from the Y pipe to the cutout. If I run into problems, I guess the SLP dual/dual would be a good catback to go for since it is quiet as hell. I don't think that different tips would have that great of an impact on sleeper-ness because damn near everyone around here does a catback and CAI and calls it a day.

I do not need hidden nitrous lines, if they are hidden, then I suppose that's cool, but as long as the bottle is out of view(in the spare tire area most likely) and the switches and gauges are somewhat concealed or look like stock, I should be fine.

Will I need an entirely forged bottom end? Or are the pistons the main thing?
http://www.golenengineservice.com/ht...rt_blocks.html

I was thinking their street/strip block with forged SRP pistons or...

http://www.revolutionaryperformance....t%20blocks.htm
their street/strip block with upgraded pistons as well

I'd like to do the short block for under $3k, to leave room for new heads/cam small crap, etc.