I didnt find anything by searching so here goes...

I'm putting my engine back together and I've ran into a problem... I'm installing the crankshaft hub and it doesnt seem to want to go on.
So far I've tried hitting it on (alot) and using the bolt, both with the impact wrench and hand tightening and the impact wrench isnt working and the engine turns over when I try and do it by hand.
What am I doing wrong? Theres still a little over 1/2" of the bare metal part sticking out. How much needs to go in?

Thanks

 

****! I threw a acc. bracket on the engine to see if it lined up with the balancer, It does, I got it on right but it seems I hammered on the hub for a couple of min after it was fully seated. (Impact socked in the center of the hub and a 3lb hammer swinging with one hand)
What could I or have I damaged? The engine was just rebuilt and is on the stand so I want to find out the problem now rather than later.

Please help

 

ew... you should never hammer on the crank like that. i would take the oil pan off and make sure your thrust bearing is not damaged.
the best and cheapest way to install your hub is get yourself a piece of stainless allthread that is the same size as your crank snout bolt along with 3 stainless nuts. butt two nuts together at the end of the allthread, screw the all thread into the crank snout along with that impact socket, a washer and then the 3rd nut and use a wrench to crank the nut down along w/ another wrench on the two end nuts to counter the torque (so you don't bottom out the allthread to the bottom of the crank snout) until the hub is seated.

 

I hammered mine on too Clearly not the smartest thing to do but hey

 

Yeah, I learned my lesson...The oil pan isnt on it yet so its not a problem and so is the hub. What kind of damage should I look for on the thrust bearing? Also, pardon the ingorance but where is the thrust bearing located at? Rebuilding engines is a new thing to me.

 

Ya can go get a new hub now. Chances are it is damaged.
They make installers ya can get from AZ on the loan plan.
Mahe sure there are NO burr's and the key fits FIRST,even if ya got to take the timing cover back off to inspect. Don't grind/sand too much or ya will ruin the fit.
After it is clean put it in a 350* oven for 5/6hrs. Lay EVERYTHING ya will need to install it close to the engine.With GOOD gloves run in and get it and run out and put it on. It may slip on with your hands if ya get it lined up correctly. But don't fool with it too long if it don't go--get the installer installed and get it on before the heat transfers into the crank and makes it bigger and then it WON'T fit.

If ya hammered it hard get a NEW thrust bearing and install.

 

It's the aft most bearing (rear of the block).

Take your crank out and look for any kind of impressions or markings on the side of the bearing. If you find any, replace it. If the bearing looks good, get a feeler guage and measure the thrust and see if it is still within the listed tolerance.

 

Ya can BOW the bearing and never see it and never measure it till it's too late. A NEW one is not that much,maybe $10-12 and he can put it in without removing the crank.

 

Never thought about that. probably a good idea to get a new one...
what about renting an installer from AZ? i've always heard an exclusive installer was needed for the LT1 which at least $200?

 

Well,the installer is not really special ya just have to get a piece of tubing the right length to get a regular installer to work.
I had sugested getting one from AZ in an earlier post.

 

I understand that, hence my question...

 

>I bought an installer/ puller from Summit under $70.00 part #PRO-66514 and use a 2" piece of thick piping.
But as stated earlier never use a hammer I would seriously think about upgrading to an ATI piece instead of buying an stock unit.

 

what's the thick piping for?

 

>used when installing the balancer (on the old tool) to allow it to go one evenly.