LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

A couple of notes from my MAC header install (long)

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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 12:27 PM
  #16  
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stereomandan...that wasn't the air pump It was the a/c, i took a bolt out and it started pissing stuff out lol, luckily I could move it enough and got the headers out. Pics in the sig.
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 12:30 PM
  #17  
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I had thoughts about it being A/C last night, but it was late and I figured I was out of it. Good luck to both of ya.

-Dustin-
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 12:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally posted by stereomandan
I called them directly and they got me what I needed. It was not on their website.

Just tell them that you need two sections of 3" pipe. One with a ball end and one with the flare end. Also get the two 2 bolt flanges.

Dan
I called and got what I needed. Thanks for your help.
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 04:24 PM
  #19  
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Originally posted by Laymaster
You don't have to remove all the plugs, but why wouldn't you? Most people who install these headers do the OVC wires at the same time, so you might as well do a full tune up, right? When better to hit all the plugs when there's nothing in the way? Hey....to each his own.
Because:
1) It costs a lot more money for new plugs and the OVC kit (at least $120)
2) It takes a lot more work and time to remove the plugs and route the wires.

I checked the gap on all 3 plugs that I removed. They were all still perfect and they still had the platinum pucks and tips. I was amazed at how nice my plugs were for being 64k miles old.

The stock wire routing works very well, so why mess with it. I havent' had any problems with wires or plugs so I didn't want to fix something that wasn't broken.

If I was having problems with my ignition system I would have changed the plugs for sure, and probably the wires too.

Dan

Last edited by stereomandan; Mar 16, 2004 at 04:26 PM.
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 04:26 PM
  #20  
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Originally posted by Kataklysm
stereomandan...that wasn't the air pump It was the a/c, i took a bolt out and it started pissing stuff out lol, luckily I could move it enough and got the headers out. Pics in the sig.
Sorry about that. I guess I didn't look close enough. If I would have seen that fitting that is in the new picture, I would have known right away that it was an AC line. I'm guessing you'll need a recharge though.

Glad you were able plug it back up and get the headers out. I wonder if it was bent already because it wasn't in the way of my headers at all. Weird.

Dan

Last edited by stereomandan; Mar 16, 2004 at 04:32 PM.
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 04:47 PM
  #21  
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Just my opinion Dan.I would have put new plugs in while you were there.A little PM goes a long ways.
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 04:53 PM
  #22  
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I agree with changing plugs with changing headers, but with the plugs access on the MACs, it almost doesnt matter anyways. I just got done changing mine with the stock manifolds and I wanted to do headers then just to make it easier.

-Dustin-
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 05:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by joeSS97
Just my opinion Dan.I would have put new plugs in while you were there.A little PM goes a long ways.
I understand where you guys are coming from, and appreciate the concern, but there has been no indication whatsoever to make me change my plugs. I have tracked my gas milage since I bought it new in '97. It has not gone down recently, and the plugs looked great. The car runs SMOOTH.

I trapped 98 mph in the 1/4 on a 86 degree day with 80 percent humidity full weight with CAI only, plus stereo equipment, so I know my power is not down. That was this past fall about 1000 miles ago.

Don't worry. Plugs and wires are in the fairly near future, but now right now.

Plus, after looking at the plug access with the headers on, it's only going to take about 45 minutes to change them if I want to. I'll just put it on the lift and swap them out.

Another reason for not changing them is so that I can feel what the headers and catback alone gained me. If I did the plugs and wires too, I wouldn't know if I gained something from them too.

Dan

Last edited by stereomandan; Mar 16, 2004 at 05:10 PM.
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 06:00 PM
  #24  
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stereoman. what did you do for the rear o2s? im getting headers soon and will be going through the same stuff. i think iim going with sims, but what do the rear sensors check for? i heard if they are disconnected the car goes into limp mode. the sims prevent this?
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 07:07 PM
  #25  
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thanks for the info, and be sure to let us know how you made out with them and your gains I can't wait to get mine on but with the crazy weather here in PA I don't think my fbird will be moving for some time
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 09:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by 961le
stereoman. what did you do for the rear o2s? im getting headers soon and will be going through the same stuff. i think iim going with sims, but what do the rear sensors check for? i heard if they are disconnected the car goes into limp mode. the sims prevent this?
I'm not sure yet. I'm going to leave them disconnected at first. I'll get an SES light, but it won't affect performance.

I'm debating O2 sims, or getting the PCM tuned to remove them.

Dan
Old Mar 16, 2004 | 09:52 PM
  #27  
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Another note. I think I need an O2 extension for the driver side O2. I went from my dual CAT manifolds to single CAT MAC's and I think the O2 is relocated too far away now on the driver side. I just ordered a 12" extension on www.ls1speed.com

Dan
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 10:39 PM
  #28  
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Well, the install is complete. (mostly) I still need to connect one front O2 since I am waiting on the O2 extension.

I fired it up. All I can say is WOW!!!! The MAC's with the Hooker catback is amazing. Quiet with a deep rumble at idle. As soon as it's off idle, it has a beautiful deep, deep throaty sound. NO raspyness at all. I do have a high flow cat in the system, so that may help. I didn't drive it yet. I can't wait though. I can tell already that I'm going to love it.

No leaks. Cool! That's with the gaskets and bolts that came with the MACs. I'll retorque the header bolts tomorrow and hopefully the headers will stay leak free.

The wires look great in the stock location.
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 11:05 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by stereomandan
That's exactly why I had to order the male and female 3" pipe from MAC. It came with about a 6" long piece of 3" pipe with the male ball end, and a 6" long piece of 3" pipe with the female flared end. It also came with 2 two bolt flanges.

Call MAC. They will hook you up with the parts you need. Now all I have to do is weld them to the ends of the CAT with the correct overall length that I need.

The MAC item number was TF30 if that helps.

Here's a picture of what you get for about $40 shipped.
MAC 3" Tubing with male and female ends

Dan
Why didnt you just get an offroad pipe? and the stock cat could be cut off the y pipe and that starter tube you had welded on to it..
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 11:10 PM
  #30  
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It's because I have a '97 with dual cats. I converted to the single cat style headers.

I wanted a highflow cat, not a stock cat.

Hope that anwsers your q's.

Dan



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