JAKEJR

Since this is only the 2nd LT1 I've built and because I can't find Volume 2 of my FSM set, I want to check my memory on the alignment just to be sure I do it right.

When installing the hub, I'm supposed to align the DOT on the hub with the keyway groove in the crank snout. then when installing the damper/balancer/pulley, I'm supposed to alight the cast-in arrow with the hub's DOT.

Am I correct? I want to prevent any chance of a vibration in my son's 96 LT1Vette.

Thanks for any help.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

shoebox

No, you don't align the hub or pulley marks with the keyway. You align them with the dot on the crank gear.

http://shbox.com/1/keyway2.jpg

JAKEJR

GOTTCHA!

All I need to do is bring #1 piston to TDC, which'll place the crank gear DOT at 12 o'clock, then set the DOT/MARK on the hub also at 12 o'clock and press it on. Place the triangle on the pulley at 12 o'clock, too, press it on, then torque and Lock-Tite the three bolts.

Neither of the two manuals I have show a torque reading for the hub bolt so, again, from memory, I'll be torquing the hub bolt to 74 ft lbs.

I'll be re-checking my manuals to see if I can find the torque setting for the three pulley bolts.

Man do I ever miss my Volume 2 FSM.

When I built my 388 I used an ATI SuperDampr and my crank has two woodruff keyways, so I didn't have to go through all this.

Thanks much for your help.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

96capricemgr

Helps if you have some understanding of things first.

You can install the hub any which way since the damper is neutral balanced and the engine will not vibrate. Ideally though you point it at 12o'clock with number 1 TDC so you know in the future where number 1 TDC is.

Too much reliance on books without any basic understanding of the nuts and bolts is a dangerous thing, particularly when you go trying to "help" others.

JAKEJR

Forget what I previously wrote.

I hadn't had my second cup so my brain wasn't in gear. As I get older it seems to take a lot longer, LOL

Jake

West Poiont ROCKS!

JAKEJR

I've noticed that many times the things you write are completely unnecessary and offensive. Why do you continue to do it!?

Aren't you aware of how it alienates people? It's not just me either; others have commented on it too.

I'm 64 years old and have built at least a hundred Chevy engines, both Big and Small blocks. It's just that I have only built two LT1's. The first one, my 388, used a ATI SuperDampr which didn't call for hub/pulley alignments since my forged crank has two Woodruff keyways; one for the crank gear and another one for the balancer.

Consider the effect the things you write have on others. My advice: do your best not to be so condesending and offensive. Failing that, please don't respond to any of my future posts. Thank you.

Jake

shoebox

When the crank dot is at 12 o'clock, both #1 and #6 pistons are at the top of their stroke. One will be firing and the other exhausting, depending on the cam position. For putting on the hub, you don't care which one, just as long as the crank dot is at 12.

Once you get the hub on, the arrow on the pulley will only go on one way and that is to match the mark on the hub. The spokes on the pulley are not symmetrical, so there is only one way it can go on and the bolts line up.

Some torque specs you might need: http://shbox.com/ci/fastener_matrix.html

stephenspann27

So its not necessarily important how the hubs goes on, but the damper needs to be in the correct potion in relation to the crank.. I recently replaced my damper and I have some vibration.. so I'm worried that I have it timed wrong..

stephenspann27

Nvm.. I see now that there is only one way to bolt the pulley on, the correct way. Because the spokes are not symetrical.

96capricemgr

As discussed the damper only goes on the hub one way. The hub could go on the crank any which way and it will only matter the next time you want to try and find TDC.

The damper is neutral balanced, if it was an offset(external) balance they would have used a key to align the hub on the crank because a small missalignment would have been a problem then.

SS RRR

Which is why I have a real hard time believing when someone claims their damper is special because it's "drilled out differently" than some other damper they compared it to. I have never read or heard of anyone having vibration/balance issues because they simply removed their hub/damper and put it on at a different position...

JAKEJR

Thanks for that.

I knew that, but I had a brain huccup in my thinking. As I was driving over to the shop I realized "the "error in my ways" LOL. I knew the orientation of the crank DOT, #1 and #6, that when the crank dot is at 12 o'clock #1 and #6 were both at TDC but doing different things. I even explained that to my 22 year old son as we were working on his engine.

Every evening I return home exhausted. Reminds me of a line in Lethal Weapon: "I'm too old for this sh**.

I followed your instructions, and referencing your crank gear diagram, that I printed, it all went together slick as you please.

Before doing that, I checked all the lifters, degreed in the cam and it hit right on the money. In all my years I've never had a problem with Comp's camshafts. This one was no exception.

T/C cover, Opti and damper are now on. New heads are on, along with the valve train. Geometry and coil clearance verified and lifter preload set.

Today we'll prime the oiling system, install the intake/TB, vent tube, new Blue Max wires it'll be ready to go back in. Then we'll be 'back under' once again, LOL

Thanks you very much for your assistance and cordial responses.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!