LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Cooling problem

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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 05:34 PM
  #1  
97formulakid's Avatar
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Cooling problem

OK here is the deal. My car usually ran around 210 most of the time with the occasional trip to 220. I had to install a water pump and put in a CSR unit. After I put in the unit it actually seems to be running hotter. I have a 160 thermo and the water pump. The fans operate fine and I put in coolant in the thermostat hole before closing it off trying to reduce the chance of air pockets. I have bleed it off several times and now I am getting a low coolant light. Tonight when I got home I filled up the coolant and hopefully taht will take care of the light. Is there any special procedure to bleed the air off??? I have a manual fan switch ordered, will this fix the problem and keep the car cooler??? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
Old Jun 18, 2005 | 08:37 AM
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Re: Cooling problem

Sounds to me like you might still have some air in the lines. Try bleeding them again.....also make sure you have the proper 50/50 mix of coolant. Straight antifreeze will not cool your engine properly.
Old Jun 19, 2005 | 05:42 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

Straight antifreeze will really make that big of a difference. I dont think the mixture is entirely accurate. I was just throwing stuff in there as I was trying to fill it up so maybe that is the problem. Should I still stick with a 50/50 mixture even if I am running Red Line water wetter. I will prolly go ahead and drain the anitfreeze and put some new stuff in that is mixed 50/50.
Old Jun 19, 2005 | 05:46 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

I run straight water with a bottle of Prestone rust inhibitor. Water has better cooling properties than coolant, but it will freeze and can cause rust. No worry of freezing here in Phoenix and the additive stops rust.
Old Jun 20, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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Re: Cooling problem

I run a 30% coolant/70% water mix in San Diego. As stated above, water has better thermal transfer, but you need coolant too, not just as a rust inhibitor, but the coolant raises the boiling point so the heat doesn't generate steam inside your engine.
Old Jun 20, 2005 | 09:57 AM
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Re: Cooling problem

The way to bleed it is this. take off the rad cap and make sure it is full. then replace the cap. Start the car and on the hose that goes from the waterpump to the heater core there is a flat head srew on the hose. (the hose is on the top of the water pump) open that screw untill you get a steady stream of coolant out of it. then you will have all the air out of the system. this prodcedure needs to be done with the thermostat OPEN so the car will need to be at operating temp when you open that bleeder screw. Hope this helps

Matt
Old Jul 2, 2005 | 04:40 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

ok still having problems, got the fan switch on and even with the fans on high it will still heat up to 210 or a little higher. I have no clue what to do now and would be open to any advice. thanks
Old Jul 4, 2005 | 02:03 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

Sitting in the driveway, mine runs 210*. That's because I have the AC on, and the AC fan comes on to keep it cool other wise it'll go to 235 before the cooling fan comes on, I just don't like to see it get that hot.

on the highway, at speed, it'll stay below 180. In traffic, 210* with the AC on.
Old Jul 4, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

maybe your fuseable link going to your fans has blown. Near the battery there is a group of wires with what looks like black shrink wrap(for wires) on it. check all of those and make sure it isnt burned up. Mine burned up once before and my fans only came on with the AC.

Matt
Old Jul 4, 2005 | 03:12 PM
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Exclamation Re: Cooling problem

I had the same problem with my Z there a bitc* to get all the air out of the lines, i think i had to bleed my system 15 times before i got all the air out of my heads, good luck!

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush
Old Jul 4, 2005 | 09:23 PM
  #11  
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Re: Cooling problem

it is not the fans, i think i may just try to completely flush the system and then bleed the hell out of it.
Old Jul 5, 2005 | 12:18 AM
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Re: Cooling problem

system has 2 bleeder screws... 1 on one of the top hoses with a flathead screwdriver and one on the tube coming out directly from the top of the thermostat with a 7mm socket... did you bleed the 7mm one? didnt see anywhere if you did or didnt... i had this problem and with the engine as hot as it will get somebody showed me that bleeder valve and nothing but air came out for atleast 5min and then the system took about another 1 1/2 gallons of coolant... hopefully this is yur problem too.... oh yea make sure your engine is hot atleast 210*F... that way the system will have pressure when u bleed it... just dont take off the cap

Last edited by 97silvermaro; Jul 5, 2005 at 12:20 AM.
Old Jul 9, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

ok one more questions, i got an air hose and tried to blow out the radiator and all sorts of dust and **** came out. They guy taht used to own it was a farmer and took it down dirt roads all the time. Do you guys think that maybe the radiator and ac condenser need to be taken out and cleaned really good to get all that dirt and dust out of it?
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 01:46 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

well if the cooling fins in the condenser and radiator are clogged up then they are not servin there purpose and that would be the explination for your overheatin... the fins need air to pass through them to let off the heat from the motor
Old Jul 10, 2005 | 05:48 PM
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Re: Cooling problem

I was a little off, about the temps my car runs sitting in the driveway. Without the AC on, it'll get to like 230*, just before the fan kicks on, and it won't go any higher. If I turn the AC on, it comes down to 180, 175........

If you are continually putting water in it, then that means you've never put enough water in it, and haven't bled it correctly. Everytime I have to do it, I have to relearn it. Top it off, put your radiator cap on, top off your overflow bottle, and start the car. when the T-stat opens up, you should be able to open the 7mm bleed screw on the T-stat. If you do see water streaming out of it, you don't have enough water in the system. If you see it burp out every now and again, you've still got some air in there. Either way, close it off for now. You shouldn't have any fans on right now, we want to see what happens at the overflow bottle. As the water gets hot, water should be pooring out of the bottle. turn the fans on, and your temp ought to come down. As the temp comes down, the water level in the bottle should go down, as it goes into the radiator. If it isn't, then your cap is F@#ed, and you need to get another cap. If everything is working the way it should be, then just make sure the level in your overflow bottle doesn't ever get too low, use the marks on the dip stick. Then keep bleeding it like was mentioned earlier. After I get all the air out from the bleed screws, I like to let the car heat up, and cool down, by turning the fans off and on. If your not getting anything but water out of the screws, then your done. Let the car cool down. wait till it's completly cooled down, then take off the cap. Your radiator should be full, if it's not, you still have work to do.



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