has anyone removed the coolant bypass line on the back of the heads? i am in a delima b/c the threads are so corroded and they will not torque down. i wanted to see if anyone has removed the line and pluged it since its main function is to help in bleed the system. i can drop the engine and plug it with pipe plug or remove the heads and swapp them aruond as a last resort
TIA

 

I would not eliminate them as their function is to prevent steam pockets and hot spots in the head.

 

Admittedly plead ignorance re coolant by-pass on back of heads. The only coolant line I know of exits the pass side head and routes either to the TB and to the radiator or if TB by pass goes directly to the radiator skipping the TB.

This particular pipe/hose removes the heated coolant from the heads and if you plan on plugging it up you will probably screw your heads. JMHO

 

When I did my head gasket does line were so hard to take off, plus the metal is so soft you cant get them off for nothing. I had to cut the line in half so i can remove the heads. Once off had to use a vise grip to pull them out. I've heard of people pluging them up with no problem. I belive those line are use to re-claim cooant back into the rad. faster. To cool down the heads quickier. So you don't wrap the heads if you over heat or run hot.

Vinny

 

The guy who touched my motor last took them off and I had nothing but problems with the way the car ran. When the heads came off, thank god nothing was wrong since they were GTP stage II heads, but if it means anything Im defenitly putting it back on this time around.

 

Shoebox, I know youll read this again so do you have the part number for the round little gaskets that are used for the bolts in that coolant line. Ive already asked you for everything else and it turns out that these to little items are the only thing I need.

Thanks as always.

 

right the line is for removing air pockets but it doesnt transfer enough to cool the heads as per a GM field engineer. since they are reverse cooled heads i would like to get everything striaght and make sure it would be ok. i sen someone had it done before i just need to se if anyone has any heating/cooling problems with it?

 

I never had any heating or cooling problems but the car missed noticably every once in a while and threw a ton of misfire codes.

 

That coolant line is to make sure steam pockets doesn't exist in the heads. As you know that these are reverse flowing heads, you also know that entraped air goes to the top of whatever liquid and container it is in, so that is why they are in there. If steam gets in there, it can't get out without these tubes.

Steam in heads = excessive heat in heads = detonation with high compression (10.4 stock) = spark knock = knock retard = misfire

Sooner or later it is:

very excessive steam = very excessive heat = very excessive heat + heads= WARPAGE = downtime = (-) money in pocket book = crying

D Moss

 

I think this is the item you are wanting..
I got it off my catalog in my sig below.. Finally its of some use to me!
heh
let me know if its right!
10108680 o-ring seal

 

Yep psychocabbage your right! Thanks for giving shoebox a break.

 

Actually the number is 10108689. You will need 4 for both heads. These are listed in the part number section of my Tech Page.

 

I got robbed on those gaskets from the local Chevy delership. I think they charged very close to $16 a piece for those gaskets. little donuts with metal rings on the outside.

Still rubbing me a$$....

moss

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dmoss69
I got robbed on those gaskets from the local Chevy delership. I think they charged very close to $16 a piece for those gaskets. little donuts with metal rings on the outside.

Still rubbing me a$$....

moss [/QUOTE

WOW thats a lot for a "o" ring. I remember when I replace mine. I just brought the whole unit for $48.

Vinny

 

They list for $5.26 ea.

The best value is the whole unit that comes with the seals and bolts. Fuels94TA paid list price for his, so it can be gotten much cheaper through Dal or Jason.