well i called cmotorsports today to talk to tehm about building a stroker (383). talked to them about forged and the scat. and i think the scat would suit my needs about 6700 rpm and under 500hp. so i talk to there machine shop and the guy tells me they donot recommend the scat crank because they have an issue with them breaking.

so i just wanted to hear from anyone that has a scat crank or esspcailly anyone that has put one in, anytime recently. whether you have had probalems with or not and also what kind of abuse are giving them.

thanks.


Ps its hard for me to understand why a company that sells a product doesnt recomend you using it.

 

why dont you just ask em Vince

 

i will tomorrow. when i call them.

 

maybe they are having severe quality control issues with that casting?
imo, its a good thing that a company is not afraid to tell you not to use a product that they sell, shows integrity....

 

somaybe i have to just go with forged but it will be over kill for my application.

 

EIther that they make more money off a different crank.

I've never heard of one breaking that wasn't being used improperly.

 

David vizard is very high on the scat cast units. Not sure why combo doesnt like them, prolly a PITA to ballance would be my guess.

 

CM told me that They wouldnt recommend a forged eagle crank or the eagle h-beam rods for 600+rwhp. There are guys running more than that right now. He said get the callies for 500 bucks more.

 

Well if you look at the pricing on a Scat crank, there is not a lot of markup in them. Where something like a Eagle 4340 crank you can make some money on them.

The Scat 9000 would be PERFECT for a 6700rpm less than 500hp motor, in fact spending any more money on the bottom end would be stupid.

If you want to look at a few rules of bottom ends for LT1's, the first is you don't need a 4340 Forged crank if you have 2 bolt mains.

Second, a forged crank is needed when you plan to spin lots of RPM or put lots of N2O or a blower/turbo on the motor.

The Scat 9000 is not going to break easy. If they are breaking them we are not hearing about these motors with gross amounts of HP doing it. The Scat 9000 is good for 7,000rpm and 600hp easy in a NA engine.

As for a Eagle 4340 bottom end...... Those parts are stronger than the dam stock block. Throw a set of good rod bolts in them and you are not going to break them before you break the block or walk a main cap.

Simple........

"simple maybe they are having severe quality control issues with that casting?
imo, its a good thing that a company is not afraid to tell you not to use a product that they sell, shows integrity.... "

Never have heard about a quality control issue with and Scat Crankshaft.

As for the integrity of them not recomending that crank in his speciaic application looks like the old salesman trick of "upselling" to me.

Bret

 

thats kind of what i though.

another question is are i beams ok to say 500rwhp. my goal is 450 at the wheel and add a 50 or 75 shot


another thing is, that ive heard alot more bad about eagle cranks than any other. so maybe scat wll work for me.

 

We had one balanced with the stock LT1 flexplate and balancer , the machinist comented when we picked it up that it was nice and needed just one ounce of malory to do it.

 

I used the Scat forged piece for my stroker build, and it was a fairly nice unit for the money.

 

where did you buy it from

 

Sallee Chevrolet in OR.

 

The h-beam rod design is supposedly stronger in compression. So it might make a nice rod choice for heavy nitrous and force inducted engines. The i-beam is generally lighter and has better strength where loads are trying to pull the rod apart..... ie, high rpms.

If you look at different racing classes, you see alot of use for each connecting rod design. For instance, some of the Cup cars are running h-beams like Carillo and others are using rods like the Manley Pro series i-beams. The i-beams are lighter but there is always a trade off. Lighter components usually don't have the longevity of components that are beefier in critical areas. So, to successfully use a lighter con rod, you use a lighter piston that will exert less stress on the rod.

So bigger, lower reving engines may be better off with an h-beam and revvier, lightweight component engines with the i-beam. Just general statements... not golden rules. Just the way I look at the issue.

Either way there are i-beam rods capable of withstanding the stresses of 800+ hp engines just fine. Manley, Lunati, Howards, the list goes on. I choose lighter weight if building NA and beedier for heavy boost and nitrous. Just my rules of thumb.

Don't mean to steal Bret's thunder. I'd like to hear what he has to say on the subject as well.

And yes, the Scat I-beams are great rods for the money. They'll withstand the abuse of a 450rwhp street engine just fine. Then again... alot of that durability stuff is more a fault of machining, oil system failure and the like than it is of materials. They don't usually fail for no reason.

-Mindgame