Here is the deal, I am doing cam and heads, cloyes Timing set(or simular) electric pump etc...... I put the cam in, timing set on etc, go to put the cover on and the chopper wheel for the crank sensor hits bad, like .300. I checked and yes the crank gear is on all the way, the cam gear clears fine its just that the crank gear/"chopper wheel" deal doesnt. Is there any OBDII guys running the Cloyes set? If so did you have to butcher the lower part of the timing cover?
Also the timing chain is rubbing on the back side of the "chopper wheel" too. I suspect that if I turn the chain around it MAY clear the back side.
(BTW this is NOT my first cam swap I have probably done 20 or so, just never had this problem)
Its a 97 TA

 

Nobody? do you ditch the chopper wheel and tune the sensor out?

 

Yep, I went OBD 1 and did away with it.

 

This guy doesnt want to go OBDI, It will be tuned on the dyno using LT1 edit for OBDII cars.
Is'nt the crank sensor there just to detect a misfire? (in other words its not used most of the time and should be able to be tuned out)?????

 

You cant use the CPS with the Cloyes timing set, I assume you are using the double roller chain. You need to leave out the CPS reluctor wheel, or "chopper wheel" and have the CPS signal programmed out. Its just there to detect misfires as you said, it doesnt effect engine operation. You need to use an earlier style OBDI crank hub when using the Cloyes double roller chain on a 97 since that is the correct length without using that wheel, it will push the crank gear on the right amount due to the missing CPS wheel. You can either do that or mill down the CPS wheel or install a smaller shim of some kind to make up the space. I didnt do either when I installed the Cloyes set on mine. I just installed the crank gear with the CPS wheel by pressing it on all the way with the hub. Then removed the hub and CPS wheel, installed the timing cover, and then the hub and left out the wheel. Kind of a pain but I didnt know how else to do it at the time, its been fine since though. If I do it again I would install the correct size shim.

 

Just saying what I did.

 

Thanks Gregg, I was looking it over and there just isnt phyisicly room in there for the Reluctor. I had thought of the differance in the hubs (pully alighnment actually) I will mill the relctor down so I can use the stock hub and keep the correct geometry.
I have a deal made up for my ballancer installer to push the crank gear on so I know that is on all the way and it looks as though I would have come through the front of the cover before I had enough clearance. Also flipping the chain over didnt help it still gouges the back side of the reluctor so I was guessing that it had to be ditched.
Thanks!
WSick thanks for your .02, having the cam sensor programmed out or disabled it looks as though it will have 80% of the OBDI conversion done, But this way we dont have to buy a ECM or knock sensor....

 

Heh...imagine that, they never mentioned any problem when I ordered it. But yea, the crank sensor was going to be programmed out. Sorry that I didn't mention that Matt.

 

I'm going to be putting the double roller on my 97,so a 95 hub will take care of any problems with clearance with the reluctor removed correct? is there a shim that can be bought for this or ???

 

I do not think that a shim exists. You'll need an OBDI hub.

 

I put a Rollmaster double roller timing set in my 383 and I had to clearance the heck out of the timing cover both at the top and bottom, it wouldn't even sit flush to the block without it.
I ended up putting a 95 style timing cover on so I wouldn't have to plug the cps hole but still had to clearance it to get it to fit over the timing chain.

 

so you are saying that when i do my heads and cam on my 97. all i will need is a timing chain cover for a 97. becasue i was reading all of that stuff that the guys above posted and it sounds real complicated. ohh by the way i am going with th cloyes double roller too.

 

ALL you need to do is remove the CPS reluctor wheel and find a 95 or earlier F-body crank hub and have the CPS deleted from the pcm with LT1 EDIT= problem solved

once the ring is removed, you wont have any troubles with the timing cover as the crank gear will be able to be pushed back all the way

B-body hubs will not work fyi, they are longer then both style F-body hubs

you could probably have a shim made if you really wanted too

 

do you or anybody else hhas a picture of this. so i know exactly what i am looking for when i take my car apart.

 

if you look thru shoebox's cam install page, you can see what you're getting into but it doesnt show much about the CPS reluctor in any of the pictures
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_install.html
something to look at and reference tho

other then his site, i dont have any pictures. try searching on here for something