Need to order a timing chain as the last piece of my cam install project. I was at first going to just do the LT4 ED, but the Cloyes is so much cheaper. I know you have to run an electric waterpump, but what other problems will i run into. (ive read you have to take the crank sensor out???). Is it really worth it to run the electirc pump?

 

your 96 is like mine, here is what you have to do to run a double roller:
1. electric water pump
2. leave out the CPS reluctor ring
3. buy a 93-95 hub (this one is longer) your 96 will not work,
my 96 hub touched the opti when i put it all back
together
4. i spent 2 hours clearancing the timing cover with a dremel tool
to make it clear...
5. have you PCM reprogrammed to get rid of the CPS sensor
6. you may have to "trim" up the CPS sensor, it might rub the
double roller.....i did, it worked out good, inside the CPS is a
magnet, it picks up any metal, and is easy to pull out and
check/clean.

jesse

 

all i did to mine was grind on the back side of the reluctor ring so that it wouldnt hit the chain and have had no problems hear.

 

Think ill just get the LT4 E.D., seems like the clyoes is more work than its worth.

 

Im thinking about finding a washer that would fit the crank snout and then notching the washer to fit the key way. How does this sound?

-B

 

ttt

 

that sounds like a cobbled up fix.....

 

i thought about that same idea, except instead of a washer, having a piece of pipe cut to the EXACT dimension as the crank snout and EXACT thickness as the mounting surface of the CPS reluctor ring
a washer wouldnt really work, i would think it would be to wide from inside to outer edge, but a piece of pipe that is the same thickness as the hub imo would work better

who all has had problems with this besides "QCKZ28" with the '96-'97 hub and double roller??
i might be in this dilemna right now

took me about 30min to clearance the cover with an angle grinder and 4" disk, there is ALOT of material that needed to be removed!
i took some grease and and rubbed it all over the outer edge of the chain and kept test fitting and removing material where grease showed up, until no more grease appeared on the cover

another idea i thought of was taking that reluctor ring and grinding it down until it cleared the chan and only the center section was left and just using that!?!

call'em shotty ideas or whatever but they are just ideas that seam feasable

also if i had a chance to get a pre '96 hub from a b-body motor, i wouldnt run into any problems using that would i??

Steve

 

I went to a machine shop today to ask them to cut down the reluctor ring till it fit, however the guy gave me a washer that fit over the snout of the crank and said to notch a key way into it till it fits.

There is also a local bolt/nut/washer company that makes custom sized bolts/nuts/and washers. I'm sure they can fabricate the correct sized spacer with the key way notched in it. If anyone is interested in the spacer I'll see if the compnay will mass produce them that way we don't have to spend like $50-85 on a 93-95 hub.

So far my 97' Z28 doesn't have any rubbing problems with the Cloyes double roller however i'll double check with the grease method and let you guys know.

-B