http://www.triplecfeeders.com/images...tart/clack.wmv

I know this isnt the quietest setup, but it seems louder on one side then the other. I tried re-adjusting them, but I couldnt do it while it was running since it was hard to hear which one was clacking.

The setup goes like this:

cc306, comp r lifters, cmotorsports pushrods, comp 7/16th promags nsa, isky adjustable guideplates, and crane dual coil springs good to .730 lift.

Please help me out, when I adjusted them EOIC today none seemed to have play, but they are still making noise.

Thanks,
James

 

Did you clearance the valve covers for those rockers? Maybe some are hitting.

 

When I had them off they didnt look like they had hit anywhere. It does sound like a top end noise to me, what about you guys. The whole engine is freshly built, so it could be anything.

I have heard about comp's quality sometimes being a lil sketchy on the "r" lifters. Could it be a colappsed lifter?

Now that I think about it, it made the noise when the covers were off, so I dont think that could be it.

Any other ideas?

 

Sounds like a loose rocker to me. If you really focus you can set the valves with the motor running. I did it just the other day with open LT headers and while it was extremely loud in a closed garage I could still hear the rocker clack when it loosened it up.

 

Would there be any reason for them to not be showing any lash when the motor is off, but when it is running them having too much lash.

Do you get what I am saying?

I would think if there was no lash while it was off there would be no lash while its running since if anything the lifter would get pumped up and put more pressure on the pushrod.

I guess I will try and set them while it is running, it is just really hard to hear them when all I can hear is clacking.

 

What I did was loosen up every lock and find zero lash with just your fingers. You tighen up the nut till the rocker quits clacking then go 1/8 turn past that and lock it down. But like I said what really helps is going down the line and tighening them all up with your figures first to pull the slack out of any that arent already zero lash... then you can focus on each individual rocker easier.

I guess if that doesnt work then pull out all the pushrods to see if any arent perfectly true by rolling them on a flat surface like a piece of glass.

 

They were brand new pushrods when I installed them. Granted that I had 2 pretty major backfires when I tried starting it for the first time. I dont know if you can bend harndend pushrods just by backfiring, but who knows.

There was one intake rocker that was really loose, but the nut was still locked and hadnt backed off, so it had just became that way somehow.

Does a bent pushrod clack?

Also, so if I unlock all the polys and then set and lock, they wont naturally back out when the car runs? I was under the impression that without them locked the become real loose real fast.

Thanks,
James

 

come on, does anyone know about the lifters, is there a way that the lifters would be tight when the motor is off then when it is on them be loose?

 

Yes, I chased that EXACT problem for 1 1/2 years. My Comp R lifters were nice and tight when cold, but after the motor was running for about 45 seconds (enough time for the oil to start to warm up) they would lose their ability to maintain a "pump", or in lamens terms, they'd go soft.

Your noise DEFINITELY sounds like a top end issue. I'd start by making double and triple sure that the valve covers are sufficiently clearanced for the 1.6 rockers. Then I'd run the car with the valve covers off (at idle only) and play with the lash to see if that helps.

That's assuming that all mechanical things like bad lifter, bent pushrod, broken spring, ect. are ruled out.

 

Why are you running the 306 with dual springs good to .730 lift?

Brandon

 

The noise is from loose rockers. I tried to adjust mine to minimal preload and had the same problem. I finally let the engine warm up and the adjusted with the engine runing. I adjusted one at a time by backing off to hear a definate clacking then adjust to zero lash and then another 1/2 turn. Problem solved no lifter pump up or valve float 6000+rpm. The mistake I had made was not adjusting in enough preload...expansion of the block and heads during warm up increases valve lash clearance.

 

Thanks guys. I guess I will wait for it to get hot and adjust them with the covers off.

Right when you cant hear a clack you got like 1/8th turn past then lock em down right?

Does anyone here find zero lash and then tighten the poly down then go the 1/8th past. I have found it easier then tightening it after the 1/8th, just wondering if this way will keep them tight enough.

james

 

I had the same problem. I was using the gm guideplates, the notch were the push rods slide up and down the back side of the notch has to be clearanced more. my pushrods would tap the back of the guide plate made for a lot of noise on the passengers side. the guide plate is for only side to side left or right not up and down. also take off those crappy lt1 valve covers and see what you hear then dont worry oil wont get everywere