I'm seriously thinking on changing the leaking pump in my 95T/A myself instead of paying the $250.00 in labor costs. I can get a rebuilt pump for $58.00. My Haynes book sounds as though it should be pretty straight forward. Should I be ready for surprises? Should I pay to have it installed? Whats you guys' experiences? thanks a lot for comments. Larry

 

It's really easy. Drain the radiator, remove the hoses and unbolt the pump. The driver's side is a little more complicated than the passenger side due to the smog pump I think. I could be wrong though, I haven't had a smog pump on my car in quite some time First time to change the water pump on one of these cars I think would take someone 2 hours or so if you take a break in there and go slow.

 

I personally would lean toward a new GM pump.

 

Are rebuilt ones that bad? Or should it be GM only? Mine needs to be done soon as well.

 

Ya guys think it would be worth it for him to convert over to an electric waterpump? Just a thought I guess the timing chain would have to be replaced with a L98 style chain. Guess not worth the extra work?

 

my pump leaks too. i was thinking abuot an electric water pump. any reccomendations or other thoughts?

 

I just replaced mine with a remanuf. from Advance. The install isn't bad, and yes it's a little harder on the drivers side because of the AIR pump bracket.

I havn't had any problems with the rebuilt one. It stays cold even in the harshest stop-and-go 90* heat, but then again I just put it in

 

Im converting over to an electric waterpump, but our situations are a little different. My motor is ripped apart so hell, why not. I dunno if its worth it to rip anything else apart, while doing the waterpump, to convert over to an electric one. The mechanical drive has to be plugged, therefore the timing chain needs to be changed. But this may be a good opportunity, if you have a high milage car, to throw on a double roller timing chain,which is much stronger. Someone chime in

 

Take out pass. fan, air ducting, icm and coil, air pump, air pump bracket, and I think that's it. It's not that bad, but I would say more along the lines of 3 hours if it's the first time doing it and taking breaks. First time for me was 3 hours, second was about an hour, third was about 30 minutes or so when doin the opti.

You don't have to change timing chains when goin to electric, and you still need to buy a new pump even if goin to electric. The electric uses the stock housing and just bolts on where the cover normaly goes. It's a little more involved than that, but anyway. All you need to do is take out that coupler that links the pump drive to the cam.

 

The timing chain does not have to be replaced? Wouldnt one of the gears be eliminated, therefore a need for a shorter chain? There is a MEZIERE GM LT1 Electric Waterpump in Jegs for $199.

 

I'd do a New GM pump before remanf. unit, but I'd do an electric CSR before both. I was dumb enough to spend big money on a new GM pump a year ago thinking I was making the safe long term decision on a waterpump. Wrong, just over a year later my New GM peice was shot, leaking all over the floor. I said fug it bought a CSR and have been seeing lower temps and better HP/TQ gains than with my mechanical one. But be warned if the Electric takes a dump your looking a engine damage instead of a spot on the driveway. I recommend buying a warning kit from a fella on the ImpalaSS boards. Darkhorse on this site would be able to get you his name.

-Dustin-

 

I just got a new GM pump in the mail the other day. I was surprised to see that it comes with the water neck already in place and a new thermostat! I decided on my new motor to use the stock style pump instead of an electric one like I had before. Hint: I'm having to rebuild the motor because of an electric pump, it's not worth it.

 

Don't you guys ever look at your gauge cluster? Doesn't the "check gauges" light get your attention when it gets hot? It got mine as soon as it came on.

But yeah, I would agree that warning is a good idea. Actually I have seen it somewhere before, I just don't remember where.

I'm sure it wouldnt be to hard to make your own warning indicator using a few relays, a light, and maybe a buzzer or something.

 

I dont think my car likes to keep me informed cause the SES light never comes on, not whent he opti goes, not when the temps get high, never. But I am sure a search with Darkhorse's name and E-WP would turn up something. I need to get ahold of him, not today, but soon, and I'll post it when I get the info. I am tired of having mine on a manual switch.

-Dustin-

 

Well, I got something down on paper for a warning system. It should work. If it does, I'll let you guys know. Should only take one relay and a bulb.