Any advice before I start? I've not done an LT1 before, and it looks like a PITA.

From what I got through searching, I need to have a short plug socket. Any links to one? This was all I could find, not sure if its what I need or not:
http://www.lmperformance.com/53921/74.html

The lowest quote I got was $430 including parts. Thats just not going to happen, so it looks like I'm doing it myself. I have access to a jack and stands, but not a lift. I'm pretty confident the ones in there are the factory ones from 1993 Car is bone stock, with manifolds

 

I did it last year and well yea was not so fun at first.. To make things easier I removed the started.. Didnt actually drop it, just unbolted and slide it out of the way..Also removing the alternator was helpful.. It looks sorta overwhelming when your under there and an extra pair of hands is way helpful.. I can do them much quicker now that’s for sure. No special tools, just sockets and swivels for me.. Good luck and when you’re done I bet you can understand the quoted labor rate.. I was quoted about the same rate last year and understand why.. Just take your time and think outside the box when moving around in there..

 

Alcohol helps...

If you dont want to route the Pass side wires behind the bracket, then just cut the old ones and pull them out. If your replacement wires have enough length to allow for different routing, then just drop around the side and come up to the plugs from the general motor mount area. You will need wire separators and wire ties to hold everthing in place. Easier and quicker than running them in the stock location, and if you have aftermarket thicker wires (8mm or larger) you will have a hard time running them in the stock wire loom thingy behind the bracket anyways

 

your on the right track, and that is the right tool. you will also need the right size wrench to fit on the end of that socket. you might also want to pick up a craftsman 5/8 spark plug socket because they are only a few bucks (or borrow one even better) and and it will work for a few of the plugs, using a regular socket with a ratchet is much easier,. but you do not need it

this will not be easy, but i assure you that it is possible, despite what you might believe at times, and with that socket it is 10 times easier - not trying to scare you, just prepare you

i recommend you spray them down a day before with some type of rust penitrant to loosen up the rust. use a good plug, like a tr55 and a good wire as well. if you are doing a stock replacement then i suggest you use a stock ac delco set of wires. if not then use a set of msd 8.5 wires

 

Any recommendations on wires? I was just going to use AC delco OEM

 

good choice, i have also heard a few recommendations for the magnacore wires but have never tried them myself to say anything, msd 8.5s are always a good choice

are you going to do a OVC set up or stock routing

 

Go with delco or napa belden wires. Get delco double platinum plugs. To make it easier on removal i use a prybar and break the porcelian on the plug. Easier to remove that way. Use quality 6 point sockets on teh wire holders on the block because they strip easy. Keep the kids and wife away for the day because this is one job that will bring out the sailor mouth in you. Good luck

 

It's possible but it's going to be a bitch without headers.

My advice? Buy a set of headers and lose the manifolds before you put in the new plugs and wires.

Drop the extra cash and get over the valve cover wires as well - trust me. It's so hard to route thick performance wires where they won't get burned near certain primaries.

If you can't get headers and ovtc, then it's going to be a bitch and you may as well wait til you can at least afford the otvc kit. Or just do a search on taylor looms at summit and just buy the looms that bolt on top of the covers (like 20ish bucks).

And you don't need that plug socket, a standard socket works fine.

 

taylor does not make the looms, "made for you" does

i am sure you could do it without the tool, but recommending that someone does not need it is almost as crazy as recommending headers when someone asks for some tips on doing a spark plug and wire change

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-42502/

Not sure who manufactures them, Dan, but mine came in Taylor packaging as well, not that it really matters.

I have never even heard of needing a special socket to do the plugs, as when I put my standard socket on it worked just fine.

And putting headers on at the time I did my plug change was the best thing I ever did, I would recommend it to anybody.

 

they look like re badged made for you looms, but makes no difference. they are also cheaper than the actual OVC kit from made for you, is that the complete kit to do the whole job, including proper mounts to the valve cover studs and the allen studs for valve covers themselves - if it is that is a good deal

scroll down to the second set of items. you could always use the taylor ovc kit from thunder too, although some people have issues with the taylor wires, but take a look at the kit on thunders site. keep in mind that in order to route the wires any place but stock you will need to cut and crimp your own wires (as far as i know nobody makes a kit with pre-crimped wires) but it is highly recommended
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=198
:edit, the thunder OVC taylor kit
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=104

headers are always a good idea, but he is just asking for tips on plugs and wires, that tool is well worth the 30 dollars, and to be honest i was not aware that you could change the plugs with stock manifolds without modifying a reg tool or using that

 

For that tool, Just run up to your local sears or hard ware store and buy a 5/8" spark plug socket and cut it down a bit with a grinder. That's what I did. I didn't see a need in spending 30 bucks and wait for shipping when I could run up the street and 5 mins of work later have the same tool for 8 bucks.

But yes, that tool is awesome to have. Makes it much easier to do them.

Edit: And as said, It is a job that will bring the sailor mouth out of you for sure!!

 

If you plan on doing this stuff you should also splurge in the future and buy a pretty good socket set i have a 180 dollar socket set that has everything i need to take apart almost the entire engine. Also i did my plug change the first time without moving anything not even the alternator which i would advise you to do so now that i know better. I did it with a socket set and the original manifolds on the car i just had to pry my arms between the manifolds and the fender wells. Well anyway it took me about two hours the first time because i kept getting choked up and pissed off and walking away but i got it done. So good luck man and make sure the car is cooled sitting for a good hour and a half, and also i didnt even get the back plugs from underneath i went from the top which i will also never do again but it can be done. Good luck.

 

I only drink a couple times a year, changing plugs on an lt1 is one of them.

 

The drivers side isn't bad with stock manifolds if you drop the y-pipe. On the passenger side, move the starter and alternator as already stated. the back two are easy enough from underneath...the froint two are the problem. It helps if you have eight inch long, 1/4" diameter fingers...LOL

Since it's such a pita job, go with the best quality stuff. AC Delco platinum plugs used to be a problem...maybe they're fixed by now but I don't know. I always recommend NGK TR55IX plugs for a stock engine...they'll last the life of the enigine. You have lots of options for wires...I use magnecor wires and they are definately quality parts. The point here is use good stuff so you don't have to do it again anytime soon....