Fellow F-Buds,

I posted a thread a while back on cams, and did a lot of research. down to these two. basically, all i need to purchase are the specs of each... cant find them anywhere, and i dont trust CC's site, as many have mentioned they are typically 700+ rpm off.

Any info would be great! i have a CC503 in my crosshairs, and want to know if its worth pulling that trigger.

thanks!

al

 

IMO, no.

There are some die-hard CC306 dyno-queens out there that will tell you the 306 is the only way to go, but for dyno-proven USEFUL power the 503 is the best shelf grind for stock heads giving you more power down low while not stretching your RPM budget for those bigger numbers.

 

I'm still stock heads and am pleased with the CC503. My Z28 is running better times than the new 5.0 at the track. With full bolt ons, it's running pretty good. Still, I can't wait to get my spare set of LT1 heads ported.

 

You both say 503, which sounds good to me, even though the 306 has a way more aggressive sound. what did you guys do about the exhaust side of things?

off to the side i have a Meziere electric water pump, and LS1 lid conversion

What are the views on Pacesetters long tubes? as far as the rest, i want to go with true duals, no cats.

how does that sound?

 

Buying a camshaft for sound is not a good path to take. The 503 will give you more usable power.

The Pacesetters are a good value and get decent reviews.

 

Are you keeping your car for more than say 4or 5 years? If so, I would absolutely learn from My-Mistakes and buy Kooks or comparable stainless headers.

I thought ceramic coated would be ****. It was. For about a year. Then it started flaking. 5-6 years post-install, I am seriously considering using header-wrap cause they look so ****ed up.

 

And if your stock heads, do NOT get a cc306, heads dont flow enough. Your selling yourself short. The only way I could justify a CC306 on stock heads is if you knew come income tax return time, your slamming ARF's or LE's on it.

But for a long term cam, it will pretty much sell itself sjhort on the stock heads. Get a CC503, or spend the extra $30 for a custom grind for a max-effort stock head camshaft.


Joe

 

Had the 503 on stock heads and was very happy with it. Ran a best et of 12.6x with a 60 ft of 1.85 so I'm sure it could have been better.

 

IF you did go 306 cam, to get the most out of it, you'll need alot of gear and alot of converter.... power band is moved up high. Its useable power tho but you have to gear up and stall up to get it. 503 makes strong power in the lower and mid range and can use abit less gear and stall. So for the street, it makes more sense. For race, the bigger cam and higher rpm motor will have advantage when everything else is setup correctly

 

so i read some of your reviews, and found a thread where a DRM 400 Heads and cam were being sold...

after research, and a lot of consideration, i bought them.. they come in a week, so we'll see how they look. they flow 260cfm, which is damn decent, in case you dont know, the LE 2's flow 285cfm

needless to say, i have the head setup if i wanted to throw in a 306, or even a GM 847 when the time comes. the heads came with springs, valves and a cam, but they didnt know anything about the cam. my grandfather has some tools that might help us to figure that out, but i still dont know what cam i would get if this one doesnt cut my needs/wants...

i'll try to reply a little quicker than this last time, sorry guys..and thanks!

 

Just make sure the valve springs are up to the task of the cam and rpm range you are looking for. Whats on the heads now may not be enough or be worn out from original spec and cause valve float

 

my pacesetter fit nice i only just installed them but i can tell the ceramic coating is probably giong to flake off it already looks funky. but the fit is excelent i have ory and slp catback its real loud but sounds good at the same time, as far as true duals i couldn't tell you how itd sound. also get some 1.6rr and better springs for the cam swap

 

89roc: what is valve float? Never heard that term...

96z: nice Username, pretty damn close lol I have heard the same but that black heat tape (the name escapes me) seems to work just fine. So as far as headers go, I may do uncoated pacesetters, then that heat tape.

Who's ORY? I've had my heart set on duals..I think Summit had it for mid $2 hundreds, but i'd have to look again..its been a while.

I'd like to not waste the money on new springs, but I guess we'll just have to wait and see what condition they're in to tell. Checked the tracking, usps says it'll be in Friday. I still have a set of SA 1.6rr in sight, just wondering if I ought to get the NSA 1.6 since I'm going to have the heads off and be monkey-ing around under there anyways? What do you guys think?

 

Valve float is when the valve springs no longer control the opening and closing of the valve. The springs could reach a resonant frequency and vibrate, and the valves will open and close randomly when they arent suppose to. Or just not have enough pressure to control the opening and closing of the valves by the camshaft lobe shape. This KILLS power and can kill a motor if the valve opens and kisses the piston.

Springs need selected for the valve mass and acceleration rates provided by the cam and rpm range. Lift isnt the main thing to look at. Need to look at pressures and diameter of spring and its coils, but most hyd rollers seem to be ok with 150lbs seat pressure and closer to 375-400 lbs open pressure at peak valve lifts. I run more than this on more aggressive stuff... 170/450

 

I have Td on my 503 and love the sound, springs you have to upgrade from stock no matter how good stock ones look they wont handle the lift . follow the recommendations comp gives you on there website and you wont go wrong also nsa rockers and harden push rods and guide plates are needed .