Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
#1
Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
car ran fine all day
went to get gas, and it won't turn back on
all lights and all come on
battery level is normal
feels like trying to start a stick without pressing in the clutch
turn the key nothing happens
fuel pump turns on thats the only noise you hear
any ideas?
batteries new, alternators new, opti is new
thanks
went to get gas, and it won't turn back on
all lights and all come on
battery level is normal
feels like trying to start a stick without pressing in the clutch
turn the key nothing happens
fuel pump turns on thats the only noise you hear
any ideas?
batteries new, alternators new, opti is new
thanks
#2
Re: Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
when you turn the key on, does the security light come on nd then go off?
if it stays on, you have a VATS problem, try a different key if you have one
if it goes off, try holding the key to start, and put your foot on the brake pedal, then move the shifter to neutral and back to park, if it starts(or cranks at all), it is a problem with the neutral safety switch
try that and post back
if it stays on, you have a VATS problem, try a different key if you have one
if it goes off, try holding the key to start, and put your foot on the brake pedal, then move the shifter to neutral and back to park, if it starts(or cranks at all), it is a problem with the neutral safety switch
try that and post back
Last edited by Dave89IROC; 07-19-2004 at 08:21 PM. Reason: more info
#4
Re: Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
if you hear a clicking it could be a starter solenoid, if you just need to get it started to get it somewhere try using a jumper cable from the pos term on your bat to the power term on the starter with the key in the on position..you do not want to do this alot just to get it where you need to or figure out if this is the prob..if you have an M6 you will have to have someone push the clutch in and hold the brake...make sure that they are halfway competant so that they don't run your butt over....
#7
Re: Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
Sounds like VATS then...try cleaning the keys and jiggling the ignition cylinder. You can only try once every 3 minutes or so...do a search for bypassing VATS, tons of info on it.
#8
Re: Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
Sounds like the starter solenoid could be going out.
http://www.dbelectrical.com
Call them and you can get it replaced for $32.
http://www.dbelectrical.com
Call them and you can get it replaced for $32.
#9
Re: Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
You have a digital multimeter? If so i can walk you through checking all your connections.
Personally to me it sounds like a bad ground somewhere
Personally to me it sounds like a bad ground somewhere
#11
Re: Car won't turn on, won't even try to turn over
K...
You need to check your voltage drops.
First test is on the positive side of things (insulated circuit). Connect one lead of your meter to the positive battery post. Connect the other lead to the Bat + terminal on the starter.
Unplug your coil wires so that car cant start at all (even though it isnt anyways)
Crank the car for 5-10 sec and record your voltage. If you get more than .2-.4 volts, you have a bad connection somewhere between those two terminals.
You are going to do the same thing for the ground side of things. 1 terminal to the starter case (get a good connection), and the other to the negative battery terminal. Leave coil unplugged and crank and observe. Here you want .1-.3 volts.
If you pass both of those test. Ill write the rest on how to test the solenoid and the starter itself. Let me know.
You need to check your voltage drops.
First test is on the positive side of things (insulated circuit). Connect one lead of your meter to the positive battery post. Connect the other lead to the Bat + terminal on the starter.
Unplug your coil wires so that car cant start at all (even though it isnt anyways)
Crank the car for 5-10 sec and record your voltage. If you get more than .2-.4 volts, you have a bad connection somewhere between those two terminals.
You are going to do the same thing for the ground side of things. 1 terminal to the starter case (get a good connection), and the other to the negative battery terminal. Leave coil unplugged and crank and observe. Here you want .1-.3 volts.
If you pass both of those test. Ill write the rest on how to test the solenoid and the starter itself. Let me know.
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