Alrite, so my buddy w/ the 94 formula and I come back to his house a couple days ago, park the car, no problem, everythings good, just got his new cat put on from when he was having problems with it recently (my previous post in here), that was a few days before this problem. Car was running fine before we shut it off and everything, no indication that there was a problem...
So the next morning, go to start it up, accessories turn on and everything, motor cranks, and for some reason, I couldnt hear the injectors pulsing... so we take the key out, put it back in, turn the ignition switch to the run position, and theres no sound from the fuel pump, just a click when u turn the key. I refer back to my MitchellRepair program for the 92-94 GM vehicles, and print out a procedure with a wiring schematic, and locate the relay up underneath the dash and the side "kick panel" or what not. Tear it down, and cant get a plastic peice off thats underneath the dash, because of some plastic pin w/ a clip on the underside (top side if you underneath the dash looking up). As well all know, these cars are definately not technician friendly, so I got p*ssed off, and said screw it and figured i'd come here, because I couldnt get to the fuel pump relay to test it and see if it was good or not. That and the fact that GM fuel pumps are known for not being the longest thing to last on these cars, so no point in spending hours trying to tear more stuff down to more than likely find out its probably just a fuel pump... on to the moral of this PITA experience...
Have any of you guys ever experienced these kinds of problem, where your car is running fine w/ no indication of any kind of problem, shut it off and it just doesnt start back up??? I'd really hate to tear more stuff down in 15 degree weather w/ a windchill below zero to find out it IS a fuel pump! So if any of you guys could share some experience or technical tricks as to how to troubleshoot this problem, it would be greatly appreciated... thanks alot guys, I really do appreciate it
~Jon
So the next morning, go to start it up, accessories turn on and everything, motor cranks, and for some reason, I couldnt hear the injectors pulsing... so we take the key out, put it back in, turn the ignition switch to the run position, and theres no sound from the fuel pump, just a click when u turn the key. I refer back to my MitchellRepair program for the 92-94 GM vehicles, and print out a procedure with a wiring schematic, and locate the relay up underneath the dash and the side "kick panel" or what not. Tear it down, and cant get a plastic peice off thats underneath the dash, because of some plastic pin w/ a clip on the underside (top side if you underneath the dash looking up). As well all know, these cars are definately not technician friendly, so I got p*ssed off, and said screw it and figured i'd come here, because I couldnt get to the fuel pump relay to test it and see if it was good or not. That and the fact that GM fuel pumps are known for not being the longest thing to last on these cars, so no point in spending hours trying to tear more stuff down to more than likely find out its probably just a fuel pump... on to the moral of this PITA experience...
Have any of you guys ever experienced these kinds of problem, where your car is running fine w/ no indication of any kind of problem, shut it off and it just doesnt start back up??? I'd really hate to tear more stuff down in 15 degree weather w/ a windchill below zero to find out it IS a fuel pump!
So if any of you guys could share some experience or technical tricks as to how to troubleshoot this problem, it would be greatly appreciated... thanks alot guys, I really do appreciate it ~Jon
Registered User
your best bet is to get to teh realy and see if you are getting everything and power is going out.. Most GM's ahve a fuel pump test connector in the engine compartmant that goes out to the pump and you can aply voltage and see if the pump runs. I dunno where that is tho. but you can acomplish the same thing with the relay..
Registered User
Well for starters, the fuel pump relay is under the little floor panel plastic thing thats right under your left foot when you sit in the drivers seat, not behind any kick panels, etc.. [easy to get to it too!]
And yes there is a 'fuel pump prime' lead by the PCM on the psgr side it sticks out of the wire harness there.. I used it to drain the tank once..
shoebox' site has a pic of them..
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_relay.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
Needless to say check the fuse for the fuel pump first..
And yes there is a 'fuel pump prime' lead by the PCM on the psgr side it sticks out of the wire harness there.. I used it to drain the tank once..
shoebox' site has a pic of them..
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_relay.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
Needless to say check the fuse for the fuel pump first..
Registered User
I'll just toss out an answer to your question. Yes, my fuel pump died exactly like that, no indications that it was going out. Just went to start the car on a Saturday morning, and no go. I was still on warranty then, got myself a free fuel pump.
Registered User
I know exactly what you are going through. I put put my car away for the winters, and at the beginning of this past november, about a week or two b4 I was gonna put it away, my pump crapped out too.
I was on my way home one night, booting along the highway, with no indication that anything was wrong. I get off and stopped at the variety store around the corner from my house, come back out to start the car and it turns over, then dies immediately. I try starting it numerous times after, nothing...... I think when it turned over the first time it was just using the remainin pressure/fuel left in the lines.
So I had it towed to the shop where it stays for the winter and did numerous tests to make sure it was the pump. I did the prime connector, checked the relay, etc. All indicated the pump had crapped out. So I knew I had to replace it and week by week I do a little work on it. I just dropped the tank and exhaust last weekend and pulled the old pump. Its not been an easy job but a fun learning experience. If you have to replace it i'd suggest doing it yourself if possible. I cant imagine what the labor would cost for that.
I was on my way home one night, booting along the highway, with no indication that anything was wrong. I get off and stopped at the variety store around the corner from my house, come back out to start the car and it turns over, then dies immediately. I try starting it numerous times after, nothing...... I think when it turned over the first time it was just using the remainin pressure/fuel left in the lines.
So I had it towed to the shop where it stays for the winter and did numerous tests to make sure it was the pump. I did the prime connector, checked the relay, etc. All indicated the pump had crapped out. So I knew I had to replace it and week by week I do a little work on it. I just dropped the tank and exhaust last weekend and pulled the old pump. Its not been an easy job but a fun learning experience. If you have to replace it i'd suggest doing it yourself if possible. I cant imagine what the labor would cost for that.
Well, cool, thanks guys, car still hasnt moved, planning on getting a buddy of his to tow it on over to my place, and we're guna perform some tests on the relay and prime and make sure it isnt the pump (even though hes already bought one) before we put the new one in. It seems like just as soon as one problem gets fixed on this thing, theres another one just around the corner. I, myself, am beginning to lose faith in the fbody and second guess just how much inginuity GM put behind these cars
However, before we get started on this little fiasco of replacing the pump, just EXACTLY what all has to be done? 2 of my buddys work at the local Radley Chevrolet dealership here in Fredericksburg, and are telling me that in order to drop the tank, its easier and less time consuming to just drop the whole rear end
Not looking forward to that, but also heard you dont have to do that, but on the other hand, you have to remove the torque arm and a few other little things just to get to the straps or what not, and then its a whole different ball game to try and jimmy the tank out from the car. Any first-hand experience advice would be greatly appreciated, so far you guys have been a big help, thanks a ton!!!
~Jon
However, before we get started on this little fiasco of replacing the pump, just EXACTLY what all has to be done? 2 of my buddys work at the local Radley Chevrolet dealership here in Fredericksburg, and are telling me that in order to drop the tank, its easier and less time consuming to just drop the whole rear end
Not looking forward to that, but also heard you dont have to do that, but on the other hand, you have to remove the torque arm and a few other little things just to get to the straps or what not, and then its a whole different ball game to try and jimmy the tank out from the car. Any first-hand experience advice would be greatly appreciated, so far you guys have been a big help, thanks a ton!!! ~Jon
Registered User
Well, there are several ways of doing. Some people seem to like the newer, and much debated method of cutting an access hole in the sheet metal to get to the top of the tank. My opinion on this is that you are ruining your car....
However, I believe there is a somewhat easier method of doing it from going underneath. You still have to disconnect a few things, but not as much. ie torque are, driveshaft, etc. But i believe how it was done is that you leave the LCAs connected on the rear end, let it down a little while keepin it supported, and undo the straps for the tank and disconnect the lines. Once the tank is tilted down it should allow enough room to reach up in there and get it out if i'm not mistaken. I think this would be a bit of a squeeze and you'd definitely need some extra hands around, but you wouldnt have to drop the tank and rear end completely.
I believe thats how that method goes, maybe somebody else can correct me if i'm a little off.
And then theres the good old fashioned way where u just rip apart the whole rear end of the car as i'm doing. I decided to do this cause i've got all winter and wanted to do a lot of cleaning up/undercoating in that area. Plus I plan on having some suspension pieces powdercoated while they are removed.
However, I believe there is a somewhat easier method of doing it from going underneath. You still have to disconnect a few things, but not as much. ie torque are, driveshaft, etc. But i believe how it was done is that you leave the LCAs connected on the rear end, let it down a little while keepin it supported, and undo the straps for the tank and disconnect the lines. Once the tank is tilted down it should allow enough room to reach up in there and get it out if i'm not mistaken. I think this would be a bit of a squeeze and you'd definitely need some extra hands around, but you wouldnt have to drop the tank and rear end completely.
I believe thats how that method goes, maybe somebody else can correct me if i'm a little off.
And then theres the good old fashioned way where u just rip apart the whole rear end of the car as i'm doing. I decided to do this cause i've got all winter and wanted to do a lot of cleaning up/undercoating in that area. Plus I plan on having some suspension pieces powdercoated while they are removed.