Its been a few days since the car last started. It ran fine and up to a couple weeks ago, then it would start fine and I would drive and it would just die with no warning or sputering or anything after about a minute. I would have to wait overnight to start it again, and it would do the same thing. Now it wont even start. I have perfect fuel pressure and it holds, I also did the optispark check on shoebox's website and that was completely fine. What else could be the problem, it cranks just wont start. Good battery charge.. checked all wires, they are fine, checked the opti signal and its getting to coil, and good fuel pressure. Anyone else had a similar problem? Any input would be much appreciated.

 

Have you pull a plug and watched to see if it actually sparks? (probably not the best way to check, but it works..)

 

I havnt actually pulled a plug to see if its sparking, but if the icm is getting the signal, what are the odds that none of the plugs are fireing to start it?

 

Well...the pcm can send a signal but if a) the Coil isnt sparking or b) the opti is damaged and not properly sending the sparks that could cause it.

I tend to go over the stupid stuff first... might not be the problem...but its something to rule out at least.

 

I plan to actually testing the coil tomorrow, and I tested the ICM to see that it was getting signal from the opti today, everything was right on target. And from what I understand, a faulty opti doesnt usually cause the car to not start, is this true? I was thinking maybe it could be bad O2's? Can bad O2s cause the car to not start? The MAF is unhooked to try and rule it out as the culprit, and it still wont start.

 

when my opti died the cap inside melted and would no longer distribute spark. so you could crank it all day long and it would never fire up.

 

So, reading the signals from the ICM ( like on shoebox's website here http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test ) doesn't completely rule out the optispark as the culprit? Mine checked perfect for all the tests.

 

That just verifies that the electronics in the Opti are still functioning properly. Like I said it was just something to check... if there is no spark getting to the plugs..then you know your problem is somewhere in the ignition (opti/coil, wires?) Otherwise if your getting spark to the cylinders you should look at fuel (fuses all good?), etc

 

How do i go about checking spark at the plug? Whats the easiest way to do it.

 

well.. this probably isnt the best way..but if you pull a wire/plug you can see if it sparks as the car is cranked over (Anyone know a better way???)

 

Yes, buy a spark gap tester ($5-8 at any parts store). It allows you to connect it to the end of a plug wire and ground, then set a pre-determined gap (about 3/4" -1") to test the strength of the coil and the wire path of course. Weak coils are a common culprit on these cars. Just seeing if the wire sparks to ground is not a good test.

 

Well, I have an aftermarket coil, a crane fireball thats not even 2 months old yet. Ill check the plugs today for spark.

 

I'm in agreement. Check the plugs themselves for spark, and don't electrocute yourself. Getting zapped by a wire stings.

I think I've heard a few bad things along the way about those Crane ignition coils. (Not to mention other aftermarket coils as well.) I think a lot of folks just recommend using the stock coil and a CD ignition.

Let us know how your plug test goes.

Dave

 

LOL...if I had a dollar for everytime someone used the rationale "but it's new, so it can't be that".

I've got a Crane coil as well, and never had a problem. Paul C had a similar starting issue and we ruled out the coil since it arc'd to ground about 1/8"-1/4" using the old method and the spark looked good. An opti swap later we found out it was indeed the coil all along. Painful lesson...YMMV, and good luck!

 

I never ruled out the coil, just said that it was new. Believe me, I DO know that new things go bad all the time, just stating the fact that it was new. Im going out to check that right now.