Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
This morning my car decided it didnt want to start while i was stopping for some food.
While i was driving previous to this, the voltage level on my guage kept dropping way down, when it did my spedometer would jump all over and the car would sometimes studder for a second.
Previous I have had problems with the car not wanting to start, when you hit the key it would start for a second, them immedietly die, or just crank and crank, and sometimes start and run, but very rough. This always seemed to go away if i just kept re-starting it, eventually it would run fine.
So this morning when i try to start it, they lights on the dash wont come on until i put the key all the way into the "crank" position, where it does nothing. All the accessories work. I thought the alternator might be bad, and just totally drained my battery, so i bought a new one and put it in. Still the same thing. The sercurity light is on, but not flashing like it has in the past when the car wouldnt start because of VATS.
I did get the car to start once by pulling the key in and out a bunch of times and kept trying it, and it seemed to run okay. I had to turn it off, and when i tried starting it again, it would make a strange clicking noise from somewhere near the glovebox.
UPDATE:
I went in and messed around with it again for a minute. In the fuse box under the hood, the Ignition fuse was good, as well as the fuses in the car.
I'm thinking it has something to do with the ignition module near the key, since the time i did get it to start, it was by messing with the key a bunch.
But it also makes me think that it might be the module that is somewhere in behind the glove box, since the time it started, when i was hitting the key i could hear some noises from back in there.
If anyone can shed some light on this i would be thrilled.
While i was driving previous to this, the voltage level on my guage kept dropping way down, when it did my spedometer would jump all over and the car would sometimes studder for a second.
Previous I have had problems with the car not wanting to start, when you hit the key it would start for a second, them immedietly die, or just crank and crank, and sometimes start and run, but very rough. This always seemed to go away if i just kept re-starting it, eventually it would run fine.
So this morning when i try to start it, they lights on the dash wont come on until i put the key all the way into the "crank" position, where it does nothing. All the accessories work. I thought the alternator might be bad, and just totally drained my battery, so i bought a new one and put it in. Still the same thing. The sercurity light is on, but not flashing like it has in the past when the car wouldnt start because of VATS.
I did get the car to start once by pulling the key in and out a bunch of times and kept trying it, and it seemed to run okay. I had to turn it off, and when i tried starting it again, it would make a strange clicking noise from somewhere near the glovebox.
UPDATE:
I went in and messed around with it again for a minute. In the fuse box under the hood, the Ignition fuse was good, as well as the fuses in the car.
I'm thinking it has something to do with the ignition module near the key, since the time i did get it to start, it was by messing with the key a bunch.
But it also makes me think that it might be the module that is somewhere in behind the glove box, since the time it started, when i was hitting the key i could hear some noises from back in there.
If anyone can shed some light on this i would be thrilled.
Re: Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
Originally Posted by tfs95z28
does it prime? Hear the fuel pump? Or it could be the ignition switch, if you get all accessories, but no idiot lights, my guess is ignition switch.
Going to replace it tonite.
Re: Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
starter relay or theft type relay. Or the starter is junk, try jumping the starter first. Work your way from the started back the the ignition switch, not the ignition switch to the starter it will save you money
Re: Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
I changed the ignition switch, the car now has dash lights when they key is in the "run" position, but still wont crank.
Im going to try bypassing the VATS and see if it will crank.
Could it be the starter? When it does work, it seems like the starter cranks fine. Seems to me like its something between the key and the starter.
Where is the starter relay?
Im going to try bypassing the VATS and see if it will crank.
Could it be the starter? When it does work, it seems like the starter cranks fine. Seems to me like its something between the key and the starter.
Where is the starter relay?
Re: Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
Did you check your battery cables? If those are loose at all, you'll get voltage for your lights, but it will not crank. When they come loose, the volts will drop and your gauges will go crazy while you're driving. Once you shut it off, the lights still work, but it won't crank.
Re: Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
When someone says the battery is "fine" I often wonder how they have determined that...not trying to be a smart $$---it's just that so many probems with starting are caused by bad batteries----batteries that are determined to be "fine". JMHO
Re: Car wont even crank: Battery is fine
I see you have a M6. If it's not turning over at all, it could be the clutch pedal start switch. It is a black switch under the upper part of the clutch pedal. Here is quick picture I took of it....
http://www.ace1252.com/clutch_switch.JPG
Check the switch with an ohm-meter...... or see the blue connector in the switch....disconnect it and short it with a jumper wire. If she turns over that is your problem.
It intermittantly went bad with me...wouldn't start....then would start....then the contacts in the switch finally went bad to where I could troubleshoot it.
It actually was a b!tch to troubleshoot. I ended up getting the car to crank by shorting terminals on the anti-theft relay(mounted around glove box). The clutch start switch is in the circuit for pulling in the anti-theft relay. I kept chasing my tail on it because I thought the WHITE switch that the clutch pedal touches(on the front side) was the safety switch. That thing turned out to be the "Clutch Anticipate Switch".
Beyond that...it could be the contacts for the PASS key in your cylinder lock going bad. Usually though, your security light will blink on this one.
Also, here is a schematic of the starter/charging circuit....view picture at full size to read writing....
http://www.ace1252.com/start_charging_schematic.JPG
http://www.ace1252.com/clutch_switch.JPG
Check the switch with an ohm-meter...... or see the blue connector in the switch....disconnect it and short it with a jumper wire. If she turns over that is your problem.
It intermittantly went bad with me...wouldn't start....then would start....then the contacts in the switch finally went bad to where I could troubleshoot it.
It actually was a b!tch to troubleshoot. I ended up getting the car to crank by shorting terminals on the anti-theft relay(mounted around glove box). The clutch start switch is in the circuit for pulling in the anti-theft relay. I kept chasing my tail on it because I thought the WHITE switch that the clutch pedal touches(on the front side) was the safety switch. That thing turned out to be the "Clutch Anticipate Switch".
Beyond that...it could be the contacts for the PASS key in your cylinder lock going bad. Usually though, your security light will blink on this one.
Also, here is a schematic of the starter/charging circuit....view picture at full size to read writing....
http://www.ace1252.com/start_charging_schematic.JPG
Last edited by ACE1252; Jul 13, 2006 at 02:55 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



