Car runs hot after CSI install
Car runs hot after CSI install
I recently put a brand new CSI electric water pump on my car.
I have a 160 thermostat and fans programed to come on at 170 and 175(high)
with the STOCK pump it would run all day, no matter what temp it was outside(live in texas, its friggin HOT) The temp gauge showed just above the first mark(like 163-167)
Now, it will go just above the 2nd mark. i believe thats the 185 mark, so around 190-200 all the time, even highway.
Whats going on here? i know i have the right thermostat in there
I figure the only other think i should mention is i have 52cc heads now instead of stock 54ish CC combustion chambers. so compression is a bit higher.
I have a 160 thermostat and fans programed to come on at 170 and 175(high)
with the STOCK pump it would run all day, no matter what temp it was outside(live in texas, its friggin HOT) The temp gauge showed just above the first mark(like 163-167)
Now, it will go just above the 2nd mark. i believe thats the 185 mark, so around 190-200 all the time, even highway.
Whats going on here? i know i have the right thermostat in there
I figure the only other think i should mention is i have 52cc heads now instead of stock 54ish CC combustion chambers. so compression is a bit higher.
I have the same thing happening. Almost all the time, the car runs just above the first mark (I would guess about 190 or so). I have a 180 thermostat. on the highway, it gets a bit warmer. Still, it's no where even remotely close to overheating.
It seems to run that temp regardless of the outside temp. I have run the car in 119 degree heat, and it never got above halfway between the first and second marks with the AC on full in city traffic. I would guess the intake air temps were probably somewhere around 150-160 degrees
My car felt like a Yugo. Must have been huge knock retard going on. 11.8:1 compression and heat = not good.
I have a manual switch, and the pump is wired up to be on with the ignition, so I can just shut off the engine, but leave the ignition on. You can actually watch the temp drop on the gauge to well below the first mark. Maybe the CSI moves more water, and gives erroneous readings? I'd like to log the coolant temp sensor (the one the computer uses in the water pump housing, not the one in the cylinder head) to see what temps it sees.
BRAD
It seems to run that temp regardless of the outside temp. I have run the car in 119 degree heat, and it never got above halfway between the first and second marks with the AC on full in city traffic. I would guess the intake air temps were probably somewhere around 150-160 degrees
My car felt like a Yugo. Must have been huge knock retard going on. 11.8:1 compression and heat = not good.I have a manual switch, and the pump is wired up to be on with the ignition, so I can just shut off the engine, but leave the ignition on. You can actually watch the temp drop on the gauge to well below the first mark. Maybe the CSI moves more water, and gives erroneous readings? I'd like to log the coolant temp sensor (the one the computer uses in the water pump housing, not the one in the cylinder head) to see what temps it sees.
BRAD
well obviously it's running and wired up right if your driving it for more than 5 minutes.
Did you bleed the system? Reverse cooling requires that you 'burp the lines'.
Mine doesn't run any cooler, actually maybe 5 deg hotter max, but i do have a stronger mix of antifreeze now which has lower heat capacity then water so I attributed it to that. Mine stays below the first line (after 160, the unmarked one) even in the heat.
-brent
edit* are either of you running amanual fan switch on the highway? Some people have reported that actually hurts radiator flow at highway speeds.
Did you bleed the system? Reverse cooling requires that you 'burp the lines'.
Mine doesn't run any cooler, actually maybe 5 deg hotter max, but i do have a stronger mix of antifreeze now which has lower heat capacity then water so I attributed it to that. Mine stays below the first line (after 160, the unmarked one) even in the heat.
-brent
edit* are either of you running amanual fan switch on the highway? Some people have reported that actually hurts radiator flow at highway speeds.
Originally posted by shoebox
Be sure you got all the air bled out.
Be sure you got all the air bled out.

-Shannon
Do you have it wired to a relay or straight to the fuse box?
When I did the initial hook up on mine I ran it to the fuse box.. as soon as I got to the auto store I wired in a thirty amp relay..
That gave me a 10 degree drop in temp.. must of been some hellacious loss going on there..
When I did the initial hook up on mine I ran it to the fuse box.. as soon as I got to the auto store I wired in a thirty amp relay..
That gave me a 10 degree drop in temp.. must of been some hellacious loss going on there..
My pump is installed with a relay wired directly from the power distribution block on the fender. I used 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp relay, so I doubt there is any problem with the wiring. I burped the system a couple of times just to check, but it didn't make any difference, and I didn't get any air coming out anyway.
I hardly use the manual fan switch. I installed it with the stock setup, but now that the fans come on automatically at about 195 or so, it's not needed. I have had it on before on the highway, and it didn't seem to make any difference.
I have about 2000 miles on the setup so far, including some driving at 119 degrees, so I'm not worried about it. Just curious that I'm not the only one who has this happening...
BRAD
I hardly use the manual fan switch. I installed it with the stock setup, but now that the fans come on automatically at about 195 or so, it's not needed. I have had it on before on the highway, and it didn't seem to make any difference.
I have about 2000 miles on the setup so far, including some driving at 119 degrees, so I'm not worried about it. Just curious that I'm not the only one who has this happening...
BRAD
A buddy of mine with a 97SS with stock setup put a CSI on his car, it kept blowing fuses and over heating, running over 210 while cruising on the highway..
So he took the electric crapper off and put a factory back on, it seems like water got into the pump and possibly shorted the internals, it reeked inside. the factory pump is keeping it nice and cool.
My car with all the mods in it runs just below the next notch passed 160 so... 175-180's? maybe with factory T-stat
So he took the electric crapper off and put a factory back on, it seems like water got into the pump and possibly shorted the internals, it reeked inside. the factory pump is keeping it nice and cool.
My car with all the mods in it runs just below the next notch passed 160 so... 175-180's? maybe with factory T-stat
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ro2207
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Dec 4, 2014 06:18 PM




