LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 04:36 PM
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marshall93z's Avatar
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car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

getting codes 15, 42, 44, 55, 63...damn!

service engine soon comes on as soon as a start the car, as well as the fan(s)...

code 15 is low temperature indicated, so maybe the fans coming on at startup have something to do with that.

42=Ignition Control (IC) circuit (shorted or grounded circuit)
44=Bank 1 (left) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit (lean exhaust indicated)
55=Fuel lean monitor
63=Bank 2 (right) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit (open circuit)

44, 55, and 63 could be because the o2's have 252,000 miles on them, not sure.

i have no clue about why 42 is showing up?

Last edited by marshall93z; Oct 8, 2004 at 05:23 PM.
Old Oct 8, 2004 | 05:23 PM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

never knew my car had heated o2's...i thought one wire was unheated? oh well...
Old Oct 8, 2004 | 06:33 PM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

All of this was taken from my 93 Service Manual. If you can't decipher it then PM me and I'll try to help.

DTC 15 -- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit (Low Temperature Indicated) -- If you have a scanner, what is the initial reading?? If less than -22*F (30*C) then: Jumper the sensor harness terminals together and recheck the reading--If less than 266*F (130*C) it's a Faulty Connection or ECT--if 266*F or more, jumper the yellow wire to ground and recheck. If less than 266*F there is an open circuit on that wire or a faulty connection at ECM, or faulty ECM. If it reads more than 266*F, it's an open ECT ground circuit of faulty connection or faulty ECM.

DTC 42 -- Ignition Control (IC) Circuit (Grounded Circuit) -- Clear DTC's. Crank engine for 15 seconds. Does DTC 42 set?? NO-->DTC 42 is intermintent. Yes-->Ignition OFF. Disconnect ignition coil module connector. With a voltmeter on an AC scale, proge ignition coil module connector terminal "B" (white wire) to ground. Crank engine and observe voltage. Is voltage between 1 and 4 volts??

NO: Ignition OFF. Disconnect ECM connector "A". With test light to B+, probe ecm harness terminal A12. Is test light on?? NO-->Faulty ECM connection or Faulty ECM. YES-->Grounded IC circuit between ECM and ICM.

YES: Ignition OFF. With test light to B+, probe ICM harness connector terminal "C" (black wire). Light should be on. Is it??

NO: Open ICM ground circuit.

YES: Ignition ON. With test light to ground, probe ICM harness connector terminals "D" (white/black wire) and "A" (pink/black wire). Light should be "ON" both. Is it?

NO: Faulty circuit from coil to ICM on circuit that did NOT light.

YES: Faulty ICM connection or faulty ICM.


DTC 44 -- Bank 1 (Left) O2 Sensor Circuit (Lean Exhaust Indicated) -- Rum warm engine (167*-203*F) at 1200 RPM. Does scanner indicate Bank1 O@S voltage fixed below .35 volt (350 mV)?--NO-->DTC 44 is intermintent--YES-->Disconnect Bank1 O2S. with engine idling, scanner should display Bank1 O2S voltage between .35 and .55 volts (350 and 550 mV). Does it?--NO-->CKT 1665 Shorted to ground (Purple/White O2 wire) or Faulty ECM--YES-->Refer to diagnostic aids: Lean Injectors, Fuel Contamination, Fuel Pressure, Exhaust Leaks, AIR system, O2 sensor wire, MAP Sensor.

DTC 55 -- Proceed ONLY if 44 is not resolved. LMK as it's a long one.

DTC 63 -- Bank 2 (right) O2 circuit (open circuit) -- Engine at normal op temp (above 176*F). Run above 1200 RPM for two minutes. Does scan tool indicate "Closed Loop?" NO-->DTC is intermintent. YES-->Disconnect bank 2 O2. Jumper harness CKT 1666 (purple O2 wire, ECM side) to ground. Bank 2 O2 below 200 mV with engine running??

YES-->Faulty bank 2 O2 connection

NO-->Remove jumper. Ignition ON, engine OFF. Check voltage of CKT 1666 (ECM side) at bank 2 O2.

300-600 mV -- Faulty ECM

over 600 mV -- Open CKT 351 (engine ground) or Faulty connection or Faulty ECM

Less than 300 mV -- Open CKT 1666 (purple O2 wire) or Faulty ECM connection or Faulty ECM

Hope this helps and wasn't too confusing.
Old Oct 8, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

damn, that was alot to read. i understand it all but i dont have a scanner or a multimeter...thanks for posting all that stuff up though!
Old Oct 8, 2004 | 07:26 PM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

whats kinda wierd is that when i first start it in the mornings it will fire right up, then die like the IAC isnt working. after i start it two or three times it will sit and idle just fine.
Old Oct 8, 2004 | 11:35 PM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

Originally Posted by marshall93z
whats kinda wierd is that when i first start it in the mornings it will fire right up, then die like the IAC isnt working. after i start it two or three times it will sit and idle just fine.
Replace the ECT first and foremost. That WILL cause a hard start condition.
Old Oct 8, 2004 | 11:36 PM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

Originally Posted by marshall93z
whats kinda wierd is that when i first start it in the mornings it will fire right up, then die like the IAC isnt working. after i start it two or three times it will sit and idle just fine.
stock opti
Old Oct 9, 2004 | 12:05 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

Originally Posted by Fastbird93
Replace the ECT first and foremost. That WILL cause a hard start condition.

isnt there two of them, one in the water pump and one on the head?

if so, which one do i need to change?
Old Oct 9, 2004 | 07:23 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

Originally Posted by marshall93z
isnt there two of them, one in the water pump and one on the head?

if so, which one do i need to change?
the one in the water pump, it is for the comp.

the gauge sender is in the head
Old Oct 9, 2004 | 11:01 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

Originally Posted by Dave89IROC
the one in the water pump, it is for the comp.

the gauge sender is in the head
What he said. Once you replace that see if it makes any difference in the O2 readings too, since the computer uses the ECT to make adjustments based on the temp.
Old Oct 10, 2004 | 12:46 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

you guys might have a point. it didnt start this until i changed waterpumps...which would also be a different ect.


i'll check it out in the morning, just getting back from the sucky "year one bash"!
Old Oct 10, 2004 | 01:14 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

i still cant figure out why the fans come on as SOON as i start the car...
Old Oct 10, 2004 | 08:47 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

It's a default mode thing, SES Light on = Fans on.
Old Oct 10, 2004 | 11:28 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

well, that seems to have fixed everything! i replaced the ECT reset the codes and took it for a 10-15 minute drive and it does fine...no engine light or anything!

thanks for the help!!!
Old Oct 10, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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Re: car running like crap at start up, then its fine, then bad once warmed up!

Good deal, glad to hear it worked out!!



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