So today I went out to start my car. Keyless entry worked fine, put the key in acc to roll down the windows and the drivers side gets 1/4 the way down and all power dies in the car. Voltage meter reads zero. I checked all fuses and they were all fine. So I hook up the battery to jump the car. This seems to work, but the voltage meter is up and down. I roll up my window and start the car. Starts fine, idles fine, but all the lights in the gauge are lighting up, then dimming, and the volt meter continues to go up and down.

Now a couple weeks ago I did install a electric WP. I put the +12 wire into the ignition fuse in the bay for power. I don't know if this could have messed up something in the system by drawing to much power or something. Also ever since I did the install the car will run fine, but it is very hard to start once it is hot. Although I think that problem has to do with my coil getting hot. If my coil failed all together would it completely kill the power through the whole car?

Thanks.

*update* last night when I got home the car started a little weak, but it ran. Idled and sounded fine, but you could see all the interior lights dimming/getting brighter. The longer it ran the worse the fluctuations were.

 

The 12V supply to the water pump has to go directly to the battery, through a circuit breaker or a fuse. It has too much draw for the fuesbox.

 

If rerouting the water pump wire doesn't fix it, try checking the voltage coming off of your battery when everything in the car is off. It should be no less than 10 volts. While the car is running, check the voltage again, it should be 14ish. If it's not, check the voltage coming off the alternator. If it's not 14 or better, time for a new one.

 

You're right, I do have the +12 volts coming straight from the battery through a relay. The wire hooked into the fuse box is the switched voltage. I'll run out here in a second and check the battery. I know the battery is probably 4 years old, and I have to recharge it every summer because for some reason it leaks down while in storage.

Ok, battery holds a constant 12.5v while car is not running and 14V while it is running. I pulled the coil just to fix that problem and noticed that black connection at the bottom was almost off the coil. Anyways, put some washers behind the coil to get it off the block and hopefully that will end my problems of starting the car after it gets hot. Buttoned everything back up and now it "seems" fine.

I think I may have a lose ground somewhere, even if the coil died I would still have power throughout the car, just not the ability to start. I did break the neg connection bolt on the car when doing the EWP install, but I thought I replaced it with another bolt that would provide a solid ground, maybe I need to recheck that connection....