car misses all the time hot or cold. Driving steady and holding a any rpm steady it has a slight surge like from the miss. If wot it will pop a little out the exhaust. No water leaks at pump but car sat like 8 months. I notice the left blv's are 120 and 138 right at idle and close to that at steady cruising rpm's. Will an opti cause split blv's?

 

The poping out the exhaust happens in the higher rpm range and right before it shifts.

 

can you see any arcing at night from the wires, and also check them very well for any spots that are burned

 

Ever since I put the msd wires on I have noticed a light blue glow on the white part of plugs. It looks the same on all 8 though so I never gave it much thought. Is this not normal? I don't see any arching just plugs have a slight glow to them.

 

Can the split block learn values have anything to do with ignition problems? Or is that a different issue?

 

Sure.... misfires cause the BLM's to elevate. So does a leak in the exhaust before the O2 sensor. Have you tried switching the O2 sensors side to side to see if the problem follows the sensor? A problem with misfires, exhaust leaks or an O2 sensor on one side of the engine will have the BLM's higher on that side, than on the other side.

 

also if it's popping at high RPM's around 5-6000 before it shifts then that's an indication that the opti is going bad.

 

It is?????

 

sounds like you have misfires caused by your plug boots not being sealed.. might try putting a small amount of dielectric grease in the end of the boot...

i had a set of taylor wires do the exact same thing on a gen1 smallblock. spark was arcing out the boot on like 6 different plug wires.. thats why i quit using taylors..


then i would do just like injuneer said, check your o2's...

i guess your not getting any codes?

 

yea that's one indication that it's going bad. Then there's other ways that these opti go bad. Like not starting all the time. Starts a few times then the next time it doesn't start and you let it sit for about 45 and it will start again. But that's not his case, his case sounds like when he's up to the 5-6000 rpms it's pops or studers then shifts.

 

The corona is normal - it may discolor the white parts of your plugs eventually - Dielectric grease in the boots is always a good idea.

 

So you're saying its not a weak fuel pump, high injector duty cycle, a weak coil, a faulty IC module, burned wires or fouled plugs.

Apparently you feel the only way an LT1 will exhibit the problem he describes it because of a problem with the Opti????

I learn something new every day.

 

Yeah not o2's. just bought new delcos and installed. possible header bolts need tightening. Just installed new gaskets at header and never retightened after heat cycles. Will put dielectric grease in boots too. Need to look at it all more closely. wont be able to till this weekend though. just wanted some input. The opti is the only thing that is not new. Cant rule out wires or coil or anything because anything can fail, new or old. Thanks for some ideas and i will post what i find this weekend.

 

yea well most of the time it's a opti bcthose are the worse things ever made on these cars and they hardly last long. I thought the same thing he did when mine went out. Check wires, nothing. Checked fuel pressure, perfect. Changed the coil, didn't help. Changed fuel filter, didn't help. Had ICM tested, nothing wrong. Now it comes to the last thing that is the biggest thing which is the OPTI!!!! Still on the process of changing it, just got it in last night and today I'm gonna change it and see. Which I know it's my opti

 

I have 116k miles on my stock opti, of which the last 23k miles have been heads/cam and I beat the hell out of my car.